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View Full Version : How can I put an M46 from a gasser on my D24T? Please help!


Grubby
01-18-2010, 05:30 PM
I have a D24T modified to fit in a 200 series car, and and m46 from a gasser, and a spare diesel bell housing. I recently found out the output shafts are different sizes. Does anyone have a source for a part for mating them up? Or specs for a machine shop to fab an adapter? Any help would be appreciated! Thanks!

piper109
01-19-2010, 07:11 AM
I have fitted a gasser M46 to a D24T. Its not difficult though you will need a sleeve for the pilot bearing or spigot bearing as some call it.

You will have to mate the M46 to the diesel bell housing. If its the right one for the angle your engine is sitting at you are in luck.
There are 2 bellhousings for M46-D24. One is for the non-turbo D24 engine and its angle. The other is for the Turbo D24T and its angle. If you have the wrong one you will need to find an engineer friend as mods will be necessary to clock the mounting holes. If you have a bell housing from a ZF tranny you are up the creek sans paddle.

For the pilot bearing, you can make a sleeve 18mm OD and 15mm ID about 20mm long, which fits into the end of the crankshaft (light drive fit).
Then you get a INA needle bearing (preferably with 1 seal) from a bearing distributor with a 15 mm OD and fit it inside this sleeve. This will have the correct ID for the M46 shaft. This is what I did.

Alternatively, you can make a sleeve that fits over the gas engine M46 shaft that brings the shaft OD up to the diameter of the normal D24T needle bearing. You will find that pilot bearing very hard to get. Perhaps a bearing distributor can get it for you as its also an INA standard needle bearing with 1 seal.

Hope this helps. If you need help finding the right INA needle bearing numbers, I can help. Their catalogue is on line.

Steve

Grubby
01-19-2010, 06:16 PM
Thanks for your info about the bell housing lining up. Only 1 way to find out, I guess. I am trying to think of a way I could line them up and know for sure before putting it all in the car, but I have to see how the engine lies with its modified engine mounts. Wish me luck. Thanks for the measurements on that spacer. That is pretty much what I thought would work: just fill in the space so that a gas bearing would work. My only concern was whether the extra torque would be an issue, but its just a pilot bearing, the shaft just turns in it, so I can't see how torque would really affect it. Any thought on that.

And lastly: Do you happen to have some extra throttle cable spools lying around???
Thanks again for your time.
Abe

piper109
01-19-2010, 06:45 PM
I'm interested to know if you are using the turbo oil pan and therefore mounting the engine at the D24T angle as in the 740?
It is possible to use the D24 non turbo oil pan but you have to modify it to provide a turbo oil drain into the pan. That way you can mount the engine at the angle done on the factory 240 diesels. You just have to change the oil pickup as well as the pan.
There is usually an interference problem withthe D24T pan in 200 series car requiring a mod to the suspension cross member.

Either way, you have to fit the bell housing so that the m46 is oriented vertically otherwise the gearchange will not go through the console hole properly.

You are right about the torque. The pilot bearing just supports the shaft axially while you change gears. It is static when the clutch is engaged. No torque to speak of, providing all is in line.

Sorry I have no throttle spools. You might try joining the D24 mailing list and ask on there. d24@elist.tufts.edu
Diesel stuff is impossible to find in my area. I have to search diligently on the net or improvise. Where are you located?

Steve

Eli
01-20-2010, 04:15 PM
Alternatively, you can make a sleeve that fits over the gas engine M46 shaft that brings the shaft OD up to the diameter of the normal D24T needle bearing. You will find that pilot bearing very hard to get. Perhaps a bearing distributor can get it for you as its also an INA standard needle bearing with 1 seal.


This is what I did. Easy enough, and it' has worked great so far.

The D24 Needle Pilot Bearings can be found here:
http://www.europartsdirect.com

Look for it under 200 series diesels, not 700.

When I replaced my D24 M46 with a gasser M46, I also found that the shifter linkage was at a different spot. Although the M46 I had might have been out of a 700 series, I don't know. Just be aware of where your shifter is lining up.

Good luck, D24T in 200's are my favorite.

Grubby
01-31-2010, 05:51 AM
The oil pan and oil pickup have been nicely modified and the engine should mount in the same angle as the factory 240 diesels. the guy who did this put quite a lot of work into it and it is well done. I will take a pick of it before I put it in the car and post it so others can see how he did it.

[QUOTE=piper109;1904]I'm interested to know if you are using the turbo oil pan and therefore mounting the engine at the D24T angle as in the 740?
It is possible to use the D24 non turbo oil pan but you have to modify it to provide a turbo oil drain into the pan. That way you can mount the engine at the angle done on the factory 240 diesels. You just have to change the oil pickup as well as the pan.
There is usually an interference problem withthe D24T pan in 200 series car requiring a mod to the suspension cross member.

Grubby
01-31-2010, 06:07 AM
After speaking with my local machine shop, I am going to go the route you described, piper109: build up the input shaft to the diesel bearing size. I found the pilot bearing, thanks.

One more question: what clutch kit should I get? there are some differences in the part numbers between models and motors. Are the splines on the shaft that the clutch engages the same size in both the gas and diesel M46? This might be a stupid question, but its been years since I've done a clutch. Thanks in advance for your assistance.

piper109
01-31-2010, 06:14 AM
I'm not sure what the choices might be.
I used the standard diesel clutch that works with the D24T flywheel. I had trouble finding a new friction plate so I used the old one I got from a guy along with the bellhousing.
I just had it relined.
The shaft splines are the same whether the M46 came from a gasser or diesel.
I would think that the diesel clutch would be heavier duty than a gasser clutch because of the need to deal with more torque.

Steve

cuaz64
01-31-2010, 10:48 AM
I'm not sure what the choices might be.
I used the standard diesel clutch that works with the D24T flywheel. I had trouble finding a new friction plate so I used the old one I got from a guy along with the bellhousing.
I just had it relined.
The shaft splines are the same whether the M46 came from a gasser or diesel.
I would think that the diesel clutch would be heavier duty than a gasser clutch because of the need to deal with more torque.

Steve

FCP Groton sell the friction plate, and, yes, the diesel clutch can hold more power than the gas one.

Grubby
02-06-2010, 11:40 AM
OK guys, did anyone put the diesel into a gas 200 series chassis, or were they all 200 diesel chassis? I have pulled the motor from my 1992 240 wagon (ABS and airbag), and I'm wondering what to do with all the extra wires. I have labeled everything, and I know what I need electronically for the diesel (glow plug system, turbo pressure and coolant temperature senders, starting/charging system, etc. but should I just unplug the FI ECU and leave the Fuel INjection wires wrapped up in the car, or is there something in the ECU that I need to run the car.? I'm pretty sure the ABS computer is separate from the FI one. I am going to look at the schematic again, but just wanted to see what people did with all those extra wires from the FI.
Any help from someone who's been down this road before would be helpful.
Thanks!

piper109
02-06-2010, 02:07 PM
I did my swap into a 1992 700 series wagon. I too was faced with what to do with all the wires. Most of them I tie wrapped in place after insulating them. The ECU is still in place. I never really looked for it. I used the radio suppression relay for power to the IP solenoids and hooked up the oil and temp senders using the original harness.
All except 1 of the red battery cables I hooked back up again in order to make the ABS, air conditioning work etc. I did cut off the fuel injection cables but thats about all.
Everything works except the tach and I have just bought a Dakota Diesel adaptor to make that work from the "W" terminal on the alternator.
I also still have to fix up the electric cooling fan. I need a temp switch as my radiator does not have a place for one. I'm using the mechanical fan and shroud at present but I plan to replace them by taking the shaft out of the alternator bracket, leaving room for the electric fan between the engine and the radiator.
Sorry I know little about 200 series cars but there is quite a lot in common between them so some of this might be helpful.

Steve