D24 Won't Start after Replacing Injection Pump

[DieselScout]

I recently replaced my injection pump after having it rebuilt into my '82 244 D24.

After timing the pump to .84mm and priming the pump and fuel filter (new filter) with Diesel and Liqui Moli Diesel Purge, the engine started but would stall at around idle.

The engine would run around 1000rpm and above but it produced dense white smoke.

After a while of letting it run, I let off the accelerator and it stalled with a cracking sound from the engine bay. Upon inspection, I didn't see anything broken. I did however, notice that the starter was smoking and that I had a couple of melted red wires below the battery tray, leading to another item with a pulley/belt (unsure of what it is)

The engine has not started since. It cranks, but it feels as if no fuel is getting to the engine. I double checked my timing, replaced the Pump Solenoid and verified that it was receiving power.

The other month, prior to replacing the pump, the car was in fine shape and my mechanic said the compression, injectors and glow plugs were a-ok.

Thoughts?

[v8volvo]

Sounds like multiple different things going on at once that may be unrelated.

First, it sounds like the injection pump timing is off somehow. The cold start device was disengaged before timing the pump, right? If not that will result in actual timing that is much retarded from where you intended to set it.

Second, it sounds like a coincidental but separate failure may have happened with the starter, maybe a stuck solenoid or pinion gear, or a failed ignition switch, that caused the starter to remain engaged and energized for a long time while the engine was running. That would have burned up the starter, and also either the battery cable or alternator B+ wiring near the battery due to the extended high current draw from the starter motor and high charging current from the alt as it attempted to mitigate. It might be what caused the motor to stall also, if after a while the starter eventually drew the battery voltage down enough that there wasn't enough to keep the IP fuel cutoff solenoid open.

Did you hear a swishing or whirring sound while it did run, like the sound of the starter still being engaged in the flywheel? Was it willing to crank again right away after it stalled that last time, or did you have to recharge the battery first? Does it sound normal when cranking now and do the starter and ignition switch seem to be working normally? What happens to the voltage across the battery terminals when the starter is engaged now? And the voltage at the IP solenoid when cranking?

[DieselScout]

Yes, the cold start was disengaged for the timing.

My alternator is on the passenger side of the engine, I am not sure of the item directly below the battery (USA Model)

I don't remember hearing a sound like an engaged starter while it ran, but I can't rule it out either as I was probably distracted just trying to get the car to start and run properly.

I had to recharge the battery, but this was after many attempts at starting.

It sounds normal when cranking and the starter seems to be working with the ignition switch properly. It still smokes after trying to start for more than 30 seconds.

I'll try to take some voltage readings on my next attempt.

Also, the car was sitting for about a month with aluminum foil covering the injectors and fuel lines.

[RedArrow]

I did however, notice that the starter was smoking and that I had a couple of melted red wires below the battery tray, leading to another item with a pulley/belt (unsure of what it is)

an item with a pulley near the battery tray (??=ac compressor?)

[DieselScout]

That's what I'm thinking it might be, but I've never had working A/C in any Volvo so I've just never bothered about it, lol.

[DieselScout]

I read all the situations I could find on the forum, and the two outcomes which potentially make sense to me are, "air in the fuel system" and "timing 180 degrees off."

So in those scenarios....
What's the best way to bleed air form the fuel system?
How can I tell if my Timing is 180 degrees off?

[DieselScout]

Here's a video of the latest attempt: https://youtu.be/5_hqws4lTs4

[ngoma]

First you need to verify there are no dribbles of fuel from the ends of the injector hardlines. Sorry I don't have the time right now to type a detailed list of procedures that may not be needed. :(

[DieselScout]

Hard lines are secure; no fuel dribbles noticeable.

[RedArrow]

wow, that`s a lot of cranking, a spare starter isn`t a bad idea :(
i wouldn`t do more than 15seconds at a time, maybe 20, then wait for multiple minutes. that was nearly a full minute of cranking. nice battery!

I hope you`ll soon figure out the issue

[RedArrow]

?
How can I tell if my Timing is 180 degrees off?

-from opening up the valve cover and rechecking timing as you confirm tdc on cyl 1

-or removing the vaccuum pump, carefully, and looking at the position of the plunger (under pressure vs not under pressure)

I always prefer the valve cover story. my vaccuum pump gasket is too old but my VC gasket is reusable. (And checking the valves never hurts ;) )

[ngoma]

Hard lines are secure; no fuel dribbles noticeable.
Generally we unsecure one at the injector and watch for the dribbles there. Usually the easiest is #1 injector.

Can you hear/feel the action from the fuel cutoff solenoid?

Are you cranking with WOT?

[DieselScout]

Yes, I can hear the solenoid clicking.

What is "WOT?"

[ngoma]

WOT = Wide Open Throttle. Holding WOT while cranking is an effort to get more fuel thru the system to purge air faster.

What's the best way to bleed air form the fuel system?

It depends on what tools and materials you have available, and your budget.

1.Temporarily plumb a low pressure (3 - 5 PSI) fuel pump upstream of the fuel filter. More PSI than that risks blowing out the IP seals.

2. Plumb a fuel priming bulb (commonly found on boat outboard motor tanks) upstream of the fuel filter. This priming bulb can stay there indefinitely without problem, which can be helpful for future system priming needs, i.e. fuel filter replacement or run out of fuel scenario.

3. Temporarily attach a Mityvac to the IP return hose. Pull vacuum until fuel flows without bubbles.

4. Simply cranking engine. Limit to 10 - 15 second bursts to avoid melting starter. May take several minutes. May not work if IP internal lift pump vanes are stuck, or if IP main shaft seal leaks.

5. Temporarily plug fuel tank breather tube, stuff compressed air hose into tank filler with a rag and inject air into tank to force fuel thru the IP. Probably works better to also disconnect the IP return fuel line and plug the section running back to tank.

6. Tow car in gear around the block. Works, but obviously only works on manual transmissions.

[ngoma]

How can I tell if my Timing is 180 degrees off?
Crankshaft rotates 2x for each camshaft revolution, IP is connected 1:1 to camshaft so it is possible to time IP 180deg out relative to camshaft.

As RedArrow shared above, verify crankshaft at TDC, with camshaft #1 lobes pointing up & out, notch on IP cog pulley should roughly align w/ mark on IP triangular mounting flange.

[DieselScout]

I attached a Mity-Vac to the "out" return line of the injection pump and pumped about 2 gallons. Bubbles were present the entire time and are still present.

How long should this process take?
Does this indicate an air leak somewhere upstream of the pump?

[ngoma]

If there were no leaks in the IP or upstream of the IP, and you pulled thru the return line, likely you could have purged air from the IP within a liter or two. Visualize the capacity inside the IP. You are pulling from the return line outlet, which is at the top of the top cover, so pulling out from the air space there while the fuel is entering via the fuel inlet, displacing the air.

We don't know enough yet to tell where the air is still entering from.
Some possible sources:
IP seals
Fuel filter
Fuel hose connections
Injector spill lines
There is also the possibility that the air is entering at the Mityvac hose connections or its capture cup, especially if you are going all out on the pumping handle and pulling high vacuums.

Does your IP have the transparent inlet hose? If you see bubbles moving along in there while pumping the Mityvac, that tells us there is air entering upstream of the IP.

The next step is to substitute some clear fuel line before & after the IP, and watch for bubbles at both locations while Mityvac-ing.

[ngoma]

Crankshaft rotates 2x for each camshaft revolution, IP is connected 1:1 to camshaft so it is possible to time IP 180deg out relative to camshaft.

As RedArrow shared above, verify crankshaft at TDC, with camshaft #1 lobes pointing up & out, notch on IP cog pulley should roughly align w/ mark on IP triangular mounting flange.
I just thought of another possibility-- you said the IP was rebuilt? It is very easy to reassemble the IP internals 180deg out so if the rebuilder wasn't paying close attention to the distributor plate pin and slot orientation to the main shaft key (can be easily fit together either way) then the IP can be 180deg out even when the external marks are all lined up... :eek:

But first let's get the system purged of air and pumping fuel out the injector hardlines.

[v8volvo]

I just thought of another possibility-- you said the IP was rebuilt? It is very easy to reassemble the IP internals 180deg out so if the rebuilder wasn't paying close attention to the distributor plate pin and slot orientation to the main shaft key (can be easily fit together either way) then the IP can be 180deg out even when the external marks are all lined up... :eek:

But first let's get the system purged of air and pumping fuel out the injector hardlines.

That is an interesting thought, certainly possible.

This situation does sound from the running symptoms exactly like timing 180 off. Although I don't see where the external timing was verified yet either, so it could also still be off by just a few degrees somehow. If attention isn't being paid carefully to the position of the notch on the IP pulley flange, it's theoretically possible to set timing with the dial indicator to *any* cylinder's position, not just #1, right?

Agree the process described above by ngoma is the right way to proceed, expanding with a couple more thoughts here:

First, confirm the IP is pumping fuel (without air) and that fuel is getting to injectors. The method for this is to loosen at least one, or in my case preferably all 6, of the injector line union nuts, then crank the engine on the starter. You should quickly start to see fuel squirting out of all 6. If you do, then you're moving fuel just fine. I have seen it commonly be the case with a MityVac where air bubbles appear to exist but are actually just caused by the Mityvac tubing connections. So for now, IF you find you get plenty of fuel delivery to the injectors, I wouldn't worry about some air bubbles and move on to:

Second, confirm the engine is timed to .84mm ON THE #1 CYLINDER by doing the steps posted earlier to verify timing not just to the crankshaft but also to the camshaft (valve cover removal required). External timing is checked this way. If no problem is found with that, then there are some further tests you can do to figure out if internal pump timing is 180deg off as ngoma mentioned.

Since the engine did run at one point, I think you will find fuel delivery OK and the issue is timing.

Then, third and somewhat unrelated, you may still have some kind of issue going on with the starter motor or ignition switch, unless the overheated starter was just from extended cranking during an earlier attempt.

[DieselScout]

Found the problem, it turns out my timing was 180 degrees off.
That'll teach me to remove the cam cover and keep on eye on the lobes when I do the timing on the next d24, lol.

[ngoma]

Glad you got it sorted out. :)

Somehow we got on the wrong track for a while there, probably from this:

Hard lines are secure; no fuel dribbles noticeable.
Won't start properly timed or 180 out without fuel. :confused: