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Foghorn117
01-28-2020, 10:51 PM
My Volvo was towed and when I went to retrieve it from the yard it ran and then it just died. Any idea of the best way to get it back running?

I have previously had all of its maintenance done timing belt,rear injection pump belt the pump was rebuilt by Giles to the performance spec. Giles also rebuild all of my injectors.

I replaced all of the glow plugs and the glow plug fuse. After it stopped running.

I need help getting it run in you guys are the only help I got.

v8volvo
01-29-2020, 08:40 AM
Sounds like no fun, sorry to hear. Give us a little more info and we'll help as best we can.

You said it ran after you picked it up from a tow yard, but then it died. When it died, what exactly happened? Just shut down suddenly with no warning, like if you had switched off the key? Or stumbled, smoked, lost power, then died, as a more gradual progression? Any unusual noises, smells, leaks, dashboard warning lamps, high temperature gauge readings, etc when it happened?

Did it die while stopped and idling, or while driving normally down the road, or in the midst of a full power WOT acceleration? Any other special circumstances?

How was it running in the minutes before it quit? Like normal? Or any clues of trouble?

When you tried to restart it after it died, what did it do then? And what does it do now? Cranks but doesn't catch? Or does it not crank at all?

If it cranks, does it act like it's trying to start, make any smoke out of the exhaust, etc? Or not seem like it's even close to firing?

When you did the timing belt (or had it done?), what tools and methods were used? In particular what technique, equipment, and torque spec were used to install the front crankshaft bolt?

How much fuel is in the tank? Engine fluids (oil, coolant) all normal level, color, condition, smell?

ngoma
01-29-2020, 08:09 PM
Here is some systematic help from our forum Stickeys:

Died while running, will not restart (https://www.d24t.com/showthread.php?t=1942)

and

Hard Starting (https://www.d24t.com/showthread.php?t=1225)

Foghorn117
01-29-2020, 10:55 PM
When I picked it up from the tow yard it started up fine as soon as I drove it out it just sputtered out as if it lost fueling. The car was recently in the shop and get got given a clean bill of health but then as soon as it was told it somehow lost its ability to start after that. It turns over, all the belts are in working order.

The car ran in the yard a drove it like 100 feet just till it got out of there yard and it died. It was running normal before it died. Just like always did.

The car cranks over strong, I have tried to bleed the fuel lines and would get fuel coming out but it isnt firing.

When it cranks theres bo s.oke outthe back. As if itdonest have full prime I'm thinking.

When the timing belt was done, I made sure the shop knew what to do and had the right tools. I read d24t.com before i took it to a shop.

I do believe there about a 1/4 to 1/2 a tank of diesel. All oil and coolent is okay no leaks or mixing.

My guess is while it was towed it leaped back into the tank and the pump lost Prime. From what I've read on the forms it's pretty hard to Prime this pump.

ngoma
01-30-2020, 11:56 AM
The car cranks over strong, I have tried to bleed the fuel lines and would get fuel coming out but it isnt firing.
Where did you get fuel coming out? The injector hardlines?

Can you watch for bubbles in the IP clear fuel supply tubing while cranking?

When was the last time you changed the fuel filter?

What color smoke?

Are the GPs operating? Even one bad GP can cause hard starting. I've seen 2 bad GPs cause impossible starting, even in mild weather.

From what I've read on the forms it's pretty hard to Prime this pump.
Yes, can take a long time of cranking. Keep the battery charged, and don't overheat the starter motor. Best to cycle 10 sec. crank, 20 sec. rest, etc.

Foghorn117
01-30-2020, 06:31 PM
The fuel was coming out of the injector lines, I bled them all, starting from the furthest one from the pump first.

I dont think that my car has a clear fuel line on my d24tic.the car was imported to canada form italy.

The fuel filter was changed when it was in the shop. I could change it out for a new one.

There hasn't been much smoke out the tail pipe while cranking, I think there alot of air in the lines or pump

ngoma
01-30-2020, 10:19 PM
The fuel was coming out of the injector lines, I bled them all, starting from the furthest one from the pump first.
If you are getting the little spurts (no bubbles or foam) out of the injector hardlines while cranking then you have primed the IP.

I dont think that my car has a clear fuel line on my d24tic.the car was imported to canada form italy.
Follow the fuel hose from the filter to the IP. Is that last section where it connects to the fuel inlet of the IP clear tubing? Maybe it's yellowed by now?

The fuel filter was changed when it was in the shop. I could change it out for a new one.
How long ago was that?

There hasn't been much smoke out the tail pipe while cranking,
Sorry, I misread your earlier statement, presuming you were getting smoke out the tailpipe:

When it cranks theres bo s.oke outthe back.

I think there alot of air in the lines or pump
You stated you were getting fuel out of the injector lines. That usually means the IP is primed out to the ends of the hardlines. How long cranking did it take to get the lines primed?

Foghorn117
01-31-2020, 09:09 PM
Should I leave all lines undone while cranking than when it starts to catch close them? That's what I thought when it was coming out in sports.

I think it might be a black line. I'll check in the morning.

I'd say a year ago the fuel filter was changed. I have one I could put on.

The car sounds the same as if it wants to start but never catches. So that's why I thought it might have moved timing while being towed( by a drunk person angry at were my car was..) than towed to the impound)

I'm not sure how long it took to prime lines.

ngoma
02-01-2020, 10:31 AM
Should I leave all lines undone while cranking than when it starts to catch close them? That's what I thought when it was coming out in sports.

No way in the world will it "start to catch" with all the injector hardlines disconnected-- there's no fuel getting to the injectors!

Normally, disconnecting one hardline at the injector (#1 often seems to be easiest) is sufficient to verify the system is primed. If you're getting the fuel spurts out of the one, they all should be similar, given that it's a rotary IP. Please reread the Hard Starting (https://www.d24t.com/showthread.php?t=1225) stickey again, specifically the last paragraph of the Air in Fuel Section. ;)

I'm not sure how long it took to prime lines.
Few seconds? One minute? Ten minutes?

v8volvo
02-02-2020, 09:16 AM
Sounds like progress so far. I think we'll get it figured out soon.

Here's something to keep in mind: These are extremely simple engines. There are only a very small number of things that can cause one that is ALREADY running to STOP running. Even fewer possibilities than there are for an engine that won't start in the first place!

The root issue that is preventing it from starting now is probably the same one that caused it to stall originally. Therefore, some of the things that we'd normally look at for an engine that doesn't want to start, like cranking speed, glow plug system, etc, can be ignored for now while we focus our thinking on why it stalled in the first place.

There are only three fundamental things that can cause a D24/T engine that is already running to stop running:
- Loss of crank-cam-IP timing sync (stripped or jumped or broken front or rear timing belt, or slipped crankshaft timing gear due to insufficient crank pulley bolt torque, or slipped front or rear cam gears)
- Loss of fuel supply (running out of fuel, air intrusion into fuel, restricted fuel supply, loss of power to IP shutoff solenoid, or injection pump mechanical or electrical problem)
- Loss of air supply (disintegrated air filter, collapsed inlet hose, blocked exhaust, etc)

(This of course assumes the base engine is in good health and didn't stall due to locking up after running out of oil or overheating, but you confirmed those things did not happen.)

Those potential causes above are listed in order of most likely to least likely. Unfortunately by far the most common is engine timing problems. It is MOST frequently seen if a timing belt job has been done in the recent past by someone who does not have direct, firsthand experience doing it before and wants to climb the learning curve for it in hours rather than days, and/or thinks they will be the first in history to do it successfully without the necessary tools.

Sudden loss of fuel prime while already running is possible but rarely seen on a car with plenty of fuel in the tank, and the injection pumps almost never simply fail out of the blue. A fuel filter can theoretically become so badly restricted that it is able to stall an idling engine, but usually gives a great deal of warning leading up to that point in the form of gradually increasing power loss at higher RPM. There are a few other, highly unusual possible scenarios that could cause a sudden loss of fuel supply to a running engine, like disintegration of the stop solenoid plunger or collapse/failure of a fuel line, or a few others. But ruling out timing problems is probably the task you will want to address now, before combing through the fuel system for once-in-a-blue-moon type issues.

You said the recent timing belt job was done by someone who had the correct tools and knowledge. Can you specifically list the tools that the shop told you they had and used? Was it just a regular VW diesel dial indicator for the IP? Or was it the full set of highly specialized and very rare D24 engine tools including the crank locking tool and cam gear counterhold? Did they show you the tools? Was it a shop specializing in classic Volvos? Or a Volvo dealership? Or more of a general repair shop?

Using the first link ngoma posted above (https://d24t.com/showpost.php?p=13363&postcount=3) (died while running, will not restart), can you first confirm the visual condition of the rear timing belt and that it turns while cranking?

If both of those check out OK visually, is the car in a location where you would be able work on the engine to locate the flywheel timing marks and confirm whether the cam and IP are in time using a detailed technical procedure, if we walk you through those steps?

And just to cover one other easy possibility for good measure: can you confirm that the dashboard glow plug light DOES light up when you first turn the key to Run, and that 12V power is also getting to the solenoid terminal on the injection pump just above where the hard pipes connect? (Electrical problem is unlikely as the cause given you said it "sputtered out" when it died, rather than suddenly and cleanly shutting off, but let's just make sure anyway since these are quick checks.)

Welcome to the forum by the way, sounds like a neat car you have and very unusual to find in North America, we would like to hear more about it once you get it running again!

ngoma
02-02-2020, 08:59 PM
From early on, post #4:
It turns over, all the belts are in working order.

Foghorn117
02-03-2020, 10:02 AM
First off. I just wanted to say I appreciate all the help. I'm going to take all the advice that you you are all giving me and put it into action. I'm going to start with just pulling the battery get it on a charger get it warm. So that's something I don't have to worry about. And then I guess I'm going to read bleed the system. I do have the timing tools. But I will need to get a new dial indicator due to it not being able to have the thread adapter for the length. It's needed to read it properly. The car ran before it was towed. I wonder if that played a factor in it losing Prime. Due to the car being running and driving. I don't think that it would be so drastic. As it skip timing, but it is a fair point and I will check in.

v8volvo
02-03-2020, 07:57 PM
From early on, post #4:
It turns over, all the belts are in working order.


Sorry, I guess I missed seeing that. That is the timing belts we are referring to? Or the accessory belts?

Foghorn117 that plan sounds like a pretty good one. But one reason I was suggesting looking at timing next, is I thought you guys already determined that you had gotten plenty of fuel out of the hard fuel lines to the injectors. If you had fuel running out of those unions, then everything is primed.

Foghorn117
02-03-2020, 10:45 PM
V8volvo I was thing the same, thattining might be a issue do to it being towed and mis handled by a vandel who dragged in with there truck drink and than cops towed it. That's were i thinking that it lost prime or timing of the pump. I did have the pump/ injectors rebuilt by Giles in Ontario. The performance rebulid. But do know if the timing was originally set higher. I'll have to get a different dail indicator. To fit in the pump.

ngoma
02-04-2020, 12:18 PM
When I picked it up from the tow yard it started up fine as soon as I drove it out it just sputtered out as if it lost fueling....
...The car ran in the yard a drove it like 100 feet just till it got out of there yard and it died. It was running normal before it died. Just like always did.

That is not how the car would behave if a vandal had sabotaged the timing.

Are you unable to follow the steps given in the two stickies I listed above?

v8volvo
02-05-2020, 06:44 PM
might be a issue do to it being towed and mis handled by a vandel

I would try to not get your mind too stuck on the idea that the problems were caused by being towed. It might have something to do with it. But it also might be a simple coincidence.

As ngoma pointed out, almost any kind of tampering a tow truck driver or other mischief maker could have done would probably have caused the car to not start at all. The fact that it started and ran normally for some time and distance before it died doesn't fit well with that theory. Major blunt force damage to fuel lines or fuel tank might lead to issues like yours, but if anything like that had happened you probably would have already noticed it by now, since it likely would have also involved lots of other easily visible damage to the surrounding areas.

Unless you have seen obvious evidence that the car or undercarriage was damaged during the tow, better to try not to think about that idea for now and just focus on eliminating possibilities for why it stalled, using an organized diagnostic process. Start with the stickies ngoma linked. Regardless of what events made the problem begin, at this point you just need to figure out what the problem is so that you can solve it.

No need for a dial indicator for a rough visual timing check, just a 27mm socket and ratchet. ;) Probably can find the procedure for using the flywheel and IP pulley marks with a search here, or if not, just ask us.

Foghorn117
02-08-2020, 03:14 PM
Now that I have the space to check out why my car isn't running. I have a dial indicator and 2066 cummins part. What's the beat way to start? Thanks

ngoma
02-09-2020, 12:21 PM
What's the beat way to start? Start the car? Get the car started? I think that's what you mean? Work your way thru the hard starting sticky, linked above. [Later...] Changed my mind. Start at the Air in Fuel Section first. Copied below. I have removed what I think does not apply to your situation.

Ask us at any point if you get stuck or confusing results.

Here it is, edited Air in Fuel Section:

Air in Fuel Section

Hard starting-- air in the fuel system.

Fuel system needs 100% liquid supply. Air mixed in with liquid fuel will cause problems.

Performance problems or hard starting problems can often be traced to air intrusion into the Injection Pump.

We often ask to install a temporary section of clear tubing or hose to the IP return fuel hose. This will allow visual inspection of air bubbles (or not) in the IP return-to-tank fuel line.

We use evidence of air in the IP return to infer air intrusion into the IP, where there should be no air.

Test for fuel to injectors by loosening an injector to injector line sealing nut, crank engine with ignition on, and verify small spurts of fuel forced out of the end of the injector line. Just small drips of fuel out the end of the injector line, not foam. Take care to avoid getting fuel on any hoses, it will easily damage them. Do not overtighten the nut when reconnecting. Injector line connector nuts torque spec: 25Nm / 18ft-lbs.

v8volvo
02-18-2020, 09:31 AM
Foghorn117, any luck yet with the tips in the post above?

Foghorn117
02-20-2020, 01:02 PM
Get into the car today, I fixed the rear temp sensor that I stripped. But it cranks but I'm not getting fuel out of the screw in the fuel filter housing or the lines.so I definitely think it's a hard starting situation. I seen a slight drop from under the pump, but it shouldn't be leaking since Giles re bulit it. Any suggestions. I spent 3 hour tinkering. Hopefully not timing...

ngoma
02-20-2020, 02:38 PM
Your big mistake was opening the screw on the fuel filter. Why did you do that? :confused: That was not in the process info I gave you. What you have done now is pulled air into the lines and the IP. Now you really need to prime the fuel system. Takes a long time. Careful to not overheat or burn out the starter or you will soon be replacing it. Try 10 sec. crank, 20 sec. cool-off rest. Wide-open throttle. Usually takes several minutes.

My other suggestion to you is to not worry about the timing until you can get fuel out of the injector hardline.

Please try to closely follow the steps outlined here and do no more. Trying to keep you out of trouble. ;)

Foghorn117
02-21-2020, 02:22 PM
So, bad news. Got the lines all primed only took a couple mins not to long, but I do believe that my pump is leaking from the attitude control on the bottom of pump. Called giles, ask for advice and that's what I found from his advice. Guess the pumps coming off. I do think Giles is going to warranty it and check it out. Just feel like how dis this happen it never leaked before this all happened.

ngoma
02-21-2020, 02:45 PM
Good Work! I would want to try to start it now, unless the fuel is really pouring out of the leak. Make sure the GPs are working. See below.

How can it leak from there, you asked? I can think of: 1. Loose pipe fitting; 2. Loose cover; 3. Bad o-ring seal. I did have one leak near there when the engine fell over onto the concrete floor before installing. That did crack the case. Of course, make sure it's reallly leaking from there. Since that is a low point, fuel could be leaking from higher up, or in front or behind, and end up dripping from the low point.

Glow Plug Section

D24 really needs ALL 6 GPs functioning for good starting. Depending on ambient temperature and general engine condition, ONE bad GP can cause a no-start condition. TWO bad GPs can cause no-start even in mild ambient temps.

Quick'n'dirty GP testing:

Visually inspect GP wiring and connections, especially the large diameter wires from battery + terminal to GP relay, and from GP relay to GPs, and GP bussbars. Clean corrosion if present. Disconnect battery first.
Measure voltage at the GPs when the system should be energized. Have a helper turn the key to the on position when the engine is cold, while you measure voltage at the GPs is near 12VDC.
Measure continuity of each GP individually. Remove bussbars and measure continuity between GP screw terminal and hex flats. DVOM should read 0 ohms or close to it. 1 ohm indicates faulty GP. You can definitively better test the GPs by removing them, and energizing them directly off the battery. Use thick wires (I use jumper cables) and watch for the GP tip to glow orange/red within 6 seconds.


More on testing GPs here (http://d24t.com/showthread.php?p=7747#post7747).

Foghorn117
02-21-2020, 08:37 PM
I think that its leaking form the side cover. I'm going to pull it off and replace the seal :)

ngoma
02-22-2020, 11:33 AM
check first to see if it's loose, maybe it just needs tightned down.

Foghorn117
02-23-2020, 11:04 AM
Like I know that fuel drips down, I just can't see any leaking from to top of the pump, so that what makes me think that it's the side seals that are leaking. I'm going to have to pull it off to get at both seals. Just an odd thing to happen. But I was looking at dodge ram diesel with a ve style pump and they leak from there to. Says the seals dont seal sometimes with what's in the seal kit. Any suggestions? Thank you guys/gals

ngoma
02-23-2020, 11:28 AM
Send it back to Giles.

v8volvo
02-23-2020, 09:46 PM
Nice work, sounds like good progress.

But as ngoma suggested, the thing I would want to check now before pulling the pump off is whether the engine will run. It is very unlikely that the drip you're seeing is the reason your already-running engine stalled. It takes a really massive fuel leak to affect the engine's operation at all. They normally run fine even when there is a relatively large fuel leak. I wouldn't expect the small leak you described to have anything to do with whatever caused your engine to quit after starting up normally, running fine for a time and moving the car some distance.

If you got the hard lines primed and the GPs are functioning, then it should be ready to start right up and stay running, even with the fuel drip. So, can it start now?? If not, then we should continue looking for another cause.

Foghorn117
02-25-2020, 03:16 PM
I found the a crack in the pump side cover,like I said it was leaking from. Anyone have a place I can get one? Or could I delete it? Is a ve advance housing and solenoid. The ear is cracked.

ngoma
02-26-2020, 12:11 PM
Didn't you have this IP rebuilt by Giles?

Did you get it started?

Foghorn117
02-26-2020, 02:08 PM
Talked to giles, and he was saying that it had to have happened while shipping, and it just got worst and than cracked. Looking for a nee one to replace.

v8volvo
02-27-2020, 11:30 AM
Did Giles have a replacement one he could sell you? If not, Anders probably has some core pumps or I will look around and see if I have one. If I do, you are welcome to have it.

It sounds like you want to fix this fuel drip before trying to start the engine or do anything else. That's understandable. But we're trying to make sure you realize that this cracked piece is probably not related to the engine's ability (or inability) to operate.

Are you thinking that replacing this part is going to be the step that gets the engine running again? Or just want to get this done before proceeding further with diagnostics?

Foghorn117
02-27-2020, 02:23 PM
Giles hasn't gotten back yet but hes looking for one. If anyone has that part, I would greatly appreciate it. The crack it leaking like crazy, going to fix this than try and start.

v8volvo
02-28-2020, 07:35 AM
I found a spare one. Yours for the price of shipping. PM me your address and I'll mail it to you this weekend.

Foghorn117
02-29-2020, 10:51 PM
Thank you V8volvo your coming in for the win! Cheers

v8volvo
03-02-2020, 11:31 AM
It went out in the mail to you this morning. This is a used part off an old pump that sat for a long time so I recommend giving it a very thorough cleaning before installing. Ultrasonic cleaning would be best, but if not, I would soak it in diesel, biodiesel, or another good non-etching solvent for a few days, clean it carefully with a soft metal brush, and blow it out well with compressed air before installing.

Be careful when you remove the solenoid housing to ensure that the spring and shims located behind it do not fall out. The spring and shims set preload on the dynamic advance piston in the bottom of the IP, and if it is not put back together exactly the same way, it will result in excessive timing advance at high RPM. That will damage the headgasket and eventually the rest of the engine. Technically the dynamic advance setting should really be checked with the new housing in place, and reset if necessary by changing the shim thickness, since it was originally calibrated with your old housing, but it will probably be close enough to be OK, as long as you retain all the shims that are there now.

Also make sure when you swap the actual altitude compensation solenoid over from your current housing, that the plunger and spring and O-ring for the solenoid don't fall out and are all installed in the new housing the same way they came out of the old. And of course ensure that the wire to the solenoid is plugged in and getting power when the key is turned on.

Finally, note that EXTREME clean working conditions are REQUIRED whenever opening the injection pump. Clean all around the area before attempting disassembly using whatever means necessary (steam cleaner, compressed air, brushes, carb cleaner, etc) to ensure no grit or foreign materials get inside. Any contamination can instantly destroy the injection pump and injectors, and in a worst case scenario can jam the internals of the pump at some point later on and cause a runaway situation that usually ends with total catastrophic destruction of the engine and sometimes with a car accident and injuries as well. If ANY foreign material gets inside, then you get to take the pump off the engine and send it back out to a professional rebuilder to get COMPLETELY disassembled and cleaned and calibrated again! :)

Those are the precautions. Internal injection pump work involves risk, so I recommend reading carefully on this site and making sure the cautions all make sense to you before taking anything apart. Let us know if you run into any questions as you tackle this.

Shipping cost was USD $12.55. No charge for the part, but perhaps you would like to make a donation to support the forum instead as a way of reciprocating the assistance folks here have provided. Info on how to do that here if you wish: https://d24t.com/showthread.php?p=13328#post13328

Let us know how it goes when you attempt starting the engine after you get this installed and prime the pump and lines again. :cool:

Foghorn117
03-24-2020, 04:46 PM
Now, with everything put back on the pump, itd now not sending fuel to the injectors. I have no idea why. Any suggestions

ngoma
03-24-2020, 07:58 PM
Prime the IP (fill it) by pulling vacuum from the OUT bolt until pure fuel is coming out, no bubbles. Use Mity Vac or similar.

That's all I have for you, not knowing exactly what you did to the IP.

Foghorn117
04-12-2020, 02:26 PM
Used the mityvac, to no luck woth getting fuel into pump . We were pulling -15 columns of mg but nothing coming out. Honestly has me stumped.

ngoma
04-12-2020, 11:13 PM
Try this (Not trying to start it, but have the jug of fuel on the roof when pulling fuel thru the IP):

v8volvo
04-13-2020, 09:09 PM
Foghorn, as was mentioned earlier it will help the folks here who are trying to help you if you give more information to work with. You will need to provide complete details about what exact steps you are taking and what you have done so far in order to get the most useful advice in return. We don't know what you have the mityvac connected to, what you have done with the other parts of the fuel system to ensure that you are not pulling air in rather than fuel, etc. And we don't know all the other things you have touched and worked on and changed previously over the past several go-arounds with this car.

In other words, right now you're asking folks here for help, and we're trying to give it, but the best we can really do is try to use our imagination about what the problem might be and what might lead you the right direction, because we have very little information about what you're dealing with and no visuals. You get out of this process what you put into it. Right now it seems to not be much of either, despite the best efforts of everyone posting in your thread!

A detailed post from you, with detailed pictures, reviewing everything you have done and showing what you're doing now would be one good way to start moving things forward successfully.

Another way, if it's easier, would be to take a video and post it to youtube and share the link here. If you do this, give a full tour of everything going on under the hood. Keep the camera rolling while you use the mityvac so we see what you see there, show us how the fuel lines are hooked up, show us how the engine looks and sounds when you're cranking it, etc, etc. More detail is better! Make it as long as you like!

Foghorn117
04-19-2020, 03:50 PM
So got the car running. Found out that it had water in the tank, which was frozen making it not possible to run. Now I'm dripping the tank to fix the issue

v8volvo
04-19-2020, 07:16 PM
Tell us more about what you did so that we can help you. Where you go from "here" depends on what "here" is.

Did you add an electric lift pump like you were talking about doing, and it started after that?

Foghorn117
04-19-2020, 08:24 PM
I found the issue, water in fuel tank. No idea how it got there.

v8volvo
04-20-2020, 06:39 AM
Wow. Well that would do it, and also explains the original reason the engine ran for a little while then stalled. That's out of left field. I still say you could have come to the diagnosis of "bad fuel" much more quickly and with less frustration if you had followed a step-by-step logical diagnostic process ruling other possibilities out. Just a tip for the future, and it would have left an easier to follow chain of troubleshooting information here for others to potentially find and make use of later. But either way it's good to hear you got it figured out, assuming you are sure this was it.

So, did you get the water all out of the tank, or hook up an alternate known good fuel source, and now it starts and runs just like normal again??

How did you figure out that was the issue? The process here, now that you have found a solution, is to close out your thread with details on how you succeeded, so that someone else finding this later on will understand the steps you went through and possibly get their own benefit out of it. This is the small favor you return for all the *free* time and advice others gave you. :) It's a way for this conversation to help not only you, but others too.

Have you replaced the fuel filter yet? You probably should, knowing there has been water in the tank, since it likely has much moisture and corrosion inside now if so.

Foghorn117
04-21-2020, 06:51 PM
It was warm out so I'd thought I'd try again after I had charged the battery. When it started to catch I knew it was getting fuel, but when I ran it for 5 to 10 mins the fuel filter filled with water. And than it all clicked.

I had to open the fuel door in the trunk and gained access to the tank, I lifted the car on the passenger side. To get the fuel closer to the opening. Than I used a 12v fuel transfer pump. Got all the fuel out of the tank. And seen that there was about 10 liters of water in about 40 liter of fuel.

I would say if having fuel issues, just get in the tank and check. I'd say if you think it had fuel than it cut it out quick or a brown liquid come out of injectors.

I put a new filter on and than found this out. Guess I'll change it again.

v8volvo
04-22-2020, 05:59 AM
Nice work, well done figuring it out and getting it solved. Thanks for the update and suggestions.

Glad you got it back on the road! :)

ngoma
04-22-2020, 12:03 PM
In your early posts you did suspect some drunk vandals doing something. Maybe they poured water in the tank?

Foghorn117
04-24-2020, 09:19 PM
Yeah,they did mess with it. But the thought didnt cross my mind. But I get the car running but not very well like it doesnt run well . Smoke out the back. I'll have to dump the tank of all fuel and start fresh. Good thing I know what I'm doing now.

RedArrow
07-06-2020, 09:10 PM
One more reason for a $6 lockable fuel cap.

Everyone with a diesel car should have it, period. What a story!!