Valve Shims

[adamdrives]

Does anybody have experience using the vw/audi diesel shims with our cars?I'm looking to do valve adjustment. I have a set of shims but it is incomplete and some of the shims are in bad shape from being left in moisture for some time by PO. Once I measure all I would like to be able to get correct ones without waiting too long. Here is a link to the shims via FCP: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/audi-vw-engine-valve-adjuster-shim-056109569

[RedArrow]

I have used shims from FCP before.
Even older gasser vws use same shims.

[adamdrives]

Great, thanks! That will make this much easier if a little more expensive.

[RedArrow]

My engines use the 31mm (diameter) shims.
This was one of my shim orders here, all came from FCP, it took a long time to search and confirm, back then... All of them worked.
(all shims on the list are 31mm in diameter)

I matched the part numbers with shim sizes for everyone to see. See pictures below.
There are some useful d24, d24t part numbers there also!
Order by this list if you wish. Happy diesel-bricking!

PS. I would love to have the Wahler thermostat part number (87C for d24, d24t)
and our d24(-t) waterpump part number (waterpump with cast impeller)
Thanks.

[adamdrives]

Thanks, I actually just placed my order with FCP before looking at this but they are the CRP shims. Only concern is I saw somewhere that d24t had 33mm shim, I forgot to measure. Oh well, we'll see. I got a waterpump with metal impeller from rockauto, can get p# for you.

[adamdrives]

I used an Airtex pump: AIRTEX AW9071

[BluevanACD2005]

I bought a shim kit from eBay for about $150, it has four of each size from 3.00 to 4.05. Not a huge savings, I know. But I get tired of not having the size I need. Now I never have to worry again haha.

Spenser

[adamdrives]

FCP also sells a kit, 5 of each size, 24 sizes for about the same price. https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/vw-audi-engine-valve-adjuster-shim-kit-056198109

[RedArrow]

This could be the same kit here. I'm not sure though. 120pcs
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CRP-Engine-Valve-Adjuster-Shim-Kit-073-54050-589-Engine-Camshaft-Valve-Part-/361222126323?fits=Make%3AVolkswagen&hash=item541a843af3:g:Vu0AAOSwHnFViIIs&vxp=mtr

[adamdrives]

Looks similar.
I finished my valve adjustment, took much longer than I anticipated. My only set of offset feeler gauges were in inches with a metric equivalent, which wasn't very convenient as they are in increments of 3mm or so. Anybody know of a good, metric offset feeler gauge set?
I was able to get everything within 2 hundredths of a millimeter, so hopefully that's good enough. I had a few cylinders that were a millimeter off, I'm not sure how much of a difference that would make. Hopefully this will help with my cold starting issue. Next step is to take apart an old injector so I can make a compression tester adaptor.
It took nearly 20 seconds of cranking to get the car started. I'm not too familiar with the anatomy of the fuel system but I hope it's just because the car sat for some time and the engine was revolved numerous times for t-belt, valve adjustment, setting pump timing etc, and not an indicator I have a big air leak. The crush washer on the bolt where the dial indicator screws in still looked like it had some meat on it but I would like to replace that. It's smaller than anything I was able to find.

[ngoma]

...air leak. The crush washer on the bolt where the dial indicator screws in still looked like it had some meat on it but I would like to replace that.
That one is not a likely suspect for air ingress. Air ingress more likely from:
1. Anywhere along the fuel supply line, esp. extra extra (smaller inner) flat o-ring on the fuel filter seat.
2. Bad IP mainshaft seal.
3. Fuel return lines. Could be downstream of the IP fuel OUT, or even the small fuel spill tubes from the injectors.

[adamdrives]

It's not the fuel filter, replaced that when I got the car and checked o-rings carefully. I did remove some of the fuel return lines when getting to the pump bolts, so that's probably it. We'll see how she starts today. The injection pump does have a small leak by the cold start pivot arm, hasn't been this hard to start however. Down the road I will rebuild the pump.

[adamdrives]

Too hard to be sure what's causing hard start knowing I have a questionable pump (it leaks). Still, good know my valves and pump timing are not a concern. Once I got the valve cover off I could see that both my cam seals were leaking so replacing those gives some peace of mind too. It's a shame they didn't put a petcock in the radiator, this is the second time I've gotten a sleeve full of coolant trying to drain the rad. Trying to flush out all the old junk and get some fresh zerex g-05 in as part of the water pump/thermostat service.

[ngoma]

Too hard to be sure what's causing hard start knowing I have a questionable pump (it leaks).
Not all IP leaks cause hard starting.

Might be time to hook up a low pressure fuel pump upstream of the filter, as a troubleshooting aid.

Do you park the car on an incline?

[adamdrives]

The car is always parked on flat. I'm curious, what would be the purpose of the pump?