83 244 Diesel for sale Nashville, TN.

[Jnev1]

I have to let my 240 go because I can't keep throwing money at it. She has a new battery which is the largest that will fit. New taillights and circuits. New ball joints, tie rod ends, bearings, brakes and rotors. Engine was rebuilt around 50k ago. Tinted windows, I have all the receipts from the previous owner. Transmission is the 4 speed manual with 5th being electronically activated by a button on the gearshift. I will try to post pics here if I can. Tires are in great shape. I bought this car with the intent of driving it daily to work and back 1 1/2 hours each way mostly interstate. Car did great. Until one day in April. So I parked it and drove another car for a month. I finally had a chance to work on it and found out that the booster pump by the gas tank went out. It was apparently added. I replaced the pump and she drives fine when warmed up. The only downside is that she smokes like she's getting too much fuel. The ac works and will hold a charge for a day. The leak is at the firewall. My initial thought was to engine swap her but it's too nice of a car to hack up. Plus , I have too many projects as it is. The odometer works and always has. It reads 226,813. If interested you can email me at jnev1 at msn.com. I am in the United States and am asking $1800 for the car.

[Goteborg Vapenfabrik]

The paint looks nice. Are you familiar with the user who goes by "verdigo"? He's in Clarkesville. He apparently sold his D24T powered 240 and has not logged in recently. If you could find him, he could probably help.

[Jnev1]

No I don't know him. I love the car and hate to part with it but the wife strongly recommended I not put more money in a project. Yes, the car has been repainted. No idea when. If I could I would upload all my pics.

[Jnev1]

Here are a few

[Goteborg Vapenfabrik]

Yes I understand the wife vs old car paradigm. The car always looses. I would look at "verdigo" s member page a use whatever information provided to attempt to reach him. He may be able to find a buyer. I'm too far away for a tow.

[Jnev1]

Some more.

[Jnev1]

Yes I understand the wife vs old car paradigm. The car always looses. I would look at "verdigo" s member page a use whatever information provided to attempt to reach him. He may be able to find a buyer. I'm too far away for a tow.

Thanks. I appreciate the information.

[Goteborg Vapenfabrik]

That's a decent looking car. A DL too. Needs a good home for sure.

[Jnev1]

Thanks. I forgot to mention that all of the injectors are new.

[Jnev1]

I guess there aren't many people who love these cars like we do. I have it listed locally and no bites at all. She drives fine just smokes. If I knew more about this thing I'd fix it and keep it if it was something simple. Maybe I could keep it after the divorce. Lol

[Goteborg Vapenfabrik]

It shouldn't need a pusher pump to run. Do you have the tools to check the injection pump timing or change the timing belts? If you don't know when the timing belts where changed you could be on borrowed time.

[Jnev1]

Belts were replaced when the motor was rebuilt 50k ago. It may not need the pusher pump but it runs better with it working. No I didn't remove it entirely to see if it posed a restriction when it was not operating. No I don't have the necessary tools to replace them and time it myself. I do own a dial indicator but for other purposes.

[Goteborg Vapenfabrik]

Okay, great to hear that you are sure the timing belts have just 50k.

Here's my idea:
1. Air in the system. Or,
2. A failed glow plug or two. Or,
3. A clogged fuel filter.

If you replace the fuel filter, fill it with ATF before you spin it on. It's a bit messy but worth the effort.

[Jnev1]

I did the trans fluid in the new fuel filter trick. I found there is a pin hole leak in one of the hard lines. Not a problem. I can braze it. Thanks for the suggestions.

[ngoma]

II found there is a pin hole leak in one of the hard lines. Not a problem. I can braze it.
Will that hold ~2000 PSI pulses? Safety issue!

Wonder how it got a pinhole leak. More common is cracks, either from running without the vibration damping clamps, clumsy handling during maintenance, or rotating the IP (timing?) without loosening the hardlines unions.

[anders]

A correct brazing job will hold no problem, I braze hydraulic fittings/ hard lines running 4000 psi, no problems yet!

[Jnev1]

Does the injector just screw into the head without something under it? Seems like carbon can build up in the space where the injector pops? I assume it is mechanical based on cylinder pressure. I keep reading about heat shields but none are visible.

[anders]

There should be a heat shield under each injector, they are also a one time use item as they form a seal between the cylinder head and injector nozzle by getting crushed. I have good luck with reforming and reusing, but that's another topic.
Sometimes when someone removes an injector or injectors they reinstall injectors without replacing the heat shields, when this happens carbon will build up all over the injector body and also covering the heat shield. One way to find out is to slide a small maganent down the injector bore to see if it sticks to the base of the injector bore where the injector heat shield should live. If it sticks there is a heat shield there, if it doesn't.. Well there isn't one.

If there is heatsheilds down there, spray some penetrating oil down there to help loosen them up. Sometimes you can blow the shields out by cranking the engine over.

[Jnev1]

Thanks. I didn't see heat shields when I put the new injectors in. I ordered some that were for the old vw diesel rabbit because I was told that they are the same but as I look at them they look small in comparison to the injector. However, if it's missing said part would it affect the way it runs? I understand that if they get carbon deposits it will.

[Hendo]

One way to find out is to slide a small maganent down the injector bore to see if it sticks to the base of the injector bore where the injector heat shield should live. If it sticks there is a heat shield there, if it doesn't.. Well there isn't one.


Is that backwards? Or am I just reading it wrong?

The heat shield is copper, so the magnet would *not* stick to it.

No heat shield means the magnet *would* stick to the steel head.

Right?

-Tom in Ventura

[ngoma]

Is that backwards? Or am I just reading it wrong?

The heat shield is copper, so the magnet would *not* stick to it.

No heat shield means the magnet *would* stick to the steel head.

Right?
Wrong. Heat shield is malleable steel, head is aluminum.

The injector heat shields serve at least 3 important functions:

1. Seals injector to head (combustion chamber) so gasses cannot escape between injector and head (threads).

2. Transfers heat from injector nozzle to head, where circulating coolant can remove the excess heat.

3. Protect aluminum head from sharp nozzle edge.

Leaking, or missing heat shield could cause the excessive carbon buildup on the injector body, and on the threads, making removal difficult.

This photo shows a new heat shield, upside down from the orientation it would be installed into the injector boss in the head. They are the same width or slightly larger, as the width of the injector nozzle.
912
As Anders stated, it is designed to crush (deform), to make the seal, and is a one-use item. Some have managed to reverse the deformation with a 1/2" ball bearing and vise/socket combination and gotten a few more uses out of them.

[Jnev1]

Thanks. I'm at a crossroads with this car now. Everyone wants me to sell it for a grand. I could part it out and make the 1800 back that I am asking for it. I may bite the bullet and fix it.

[anders]

My vote would be to keep it and install a turbo on it.. What difference the turbo makes!

[RedArrow]

I was happy to find it, so I thought I`d mention it here that our d24/d24t (=vw diesel) injector heat shields in this picture can be ordered from FCPEuro at $2 a piece,

they are thick black aftermarket ones and they do stick to magnets, ... but the set that came out of one of my spare engines, those wouldn`t stick to any magnet.
(They were in bad shape and I tried to refurb them using some techniques suggested here on the forum (!strictly for fun!) but all of them developed cracks immediately.

Originally Bosch shields are also metal (black), I had a chance once to buy them in their old school original bags. (30pcs/bag i think). They seem to be much thicker/stiffer than the `copper` (?) ones.

A picture can only* show the ones that do stick to the magnet. :). Ps. Yes, there`s 1 `metal` type shield in that bag (They are used, won`t go back on any engine, I kept them for reference only. 2nd pict shows both sides of unused ones, also the fcp part number (ignore my handwriting on the bag).
Keep bricking guys.

[Jnev1]

Ok. I believe that I am going to part the car out since it won't sell. The other half is pressuring me. I appreciate all the responses.

[Jnev1]

There are a couple of local shops that specializes in Volvo s. One in particular has over 15 in the back in various stages of disrepair. I myself manage a parts store and have connections to various outlets as well. So between them it won't take me long. I may or may not achieve my asking price, but I know that I will get more than the 1k I have been offered for it.

[anders]

Does it have a tach? Oil temp gauge? Ambient temp gauge?
I might be interested in a few items.