DN0SD297 Nozzles... 185Bar Open Pressure

[Ekus]

I have a new set of injectors with DN0SD297 nozzles on them, they have an open pressure of 185bar... what do you think is the correct pump timing advance for start with? 1mm? more?

[anders]

I would start at .9mm.
Why 297's? I haven't heard much about them, although I do have several sets waiting to find there way into some injector bodies.

[Ekus]

I set to 0.95mm, i will try to start engine tomorrow.

I've read engine runs smoother and sounds quieter with those nozzles, better emissions too, some people in german forums talk about them.

[unununium]

Hi,
here is a german guy having two D24TIC with 297's. One is equipped with Bosch's original version, one with Henzo's. Both are running very smooth with these nozzles; I'd say you made the right choice. ;)
Henzo's rebuild are made in Italy, in my D24TIC I've used them now for roughly 40.000km and they are still working fine. On a Golf III AAZ I was using them for I don't know how many kilometers and had no problems with them.
Bosch is original quality, I think there has nothing to be mentioned. ;)

BR
Frank

[Ekus]

Good to hear about it! Thanks
I have not tested them yet, i waitting for the big torque wrench arrives for tightening the crank bolt...
This engine needs a lot of special tools for doing the job correctly. Luckily I had all the tools in my garage, but not the Hazet tools for valves nor a big torque wrench.
I've received the Hazet tappets tool past week, i think i will have the torque wrench tomorrow... I can not wait for starting that engine!:D
I wil tell you about how those injectors work on this engine,
Best regards:)

[Ekus]

I had no time yet for trying to start the engine, i've tightened the crank bolt today with the help of the big torque wrench to 460Nm + thread locker... holy cow!:eek: that thing is really tightened!
I will try to start the engine tomorrow...i will tell you:)
http://s30.postimg.org/egdnfhvb5/IMG_20160216_170259.jpg

http://s22.postimg.org/9v0qc12pt/IMG_20160216_170332.jpg

http://s15.postimg.org/qvwwiwviz/IMG_20160216_170511.jpg

[RedArrow]

That lime green is nice.

I found something very similar, ``John Deer Green`` , suggested on Agriculture Machinery.

Good idea on Volvo tool #9995187
:)

[Ekus]

Thanks!
I've started engine finally, it starts almost inmediatly! the engine sound is great too, i'm very happy:) I will try it tomorrow and will post my conclusions about it but seems working really fine. Thanks for your help

[Ekus]

I've tried several timing advances past days, engine did smoke white with 0.95mm. I finally set to 1.10mm, surely pump is not in perfect shape and that's the reason why it needs so much advance, but engine sounds and run perfectly there. I've tried more advance but overall impression was bad, 1.10mm seems fine for that old pump+higher pressure injectors(185bar).
Engine still having a gray/white haze that does not dissapear with the smoke screw adjustment in the pump. Engine is not missing coolant, and smoke has not blue colour and smells like diesel. I found that two exhaust valves have not clearance at all, meaning that they never be closed at all...
do you think that compression lost in two cylinders through the exhaust valves can cause the unburnt fuel make that haze?
or it will be a worn pump instead? Engine pulls nicely, sounds great, idle is smooth.
I will ask for adjusting discs on a vw dealer tomorrow...

[RedArrow]

You may find certain spots on your engine calling for the thicker shims; so switching over a few of them is an option to experiment (stay within specs), if you have the time.

FcpEuro has new shims available, not expensive. https://www.fcpeuro.com/products?keywords=vw%20valve%20shim

[ngoma]

do you think that compression lost in two cylinders through the exhaust valves can cause the unburnt fuel make that haze?
Yes, white/gray smoke can indicate raw unburnt fuel. If the valves are not completely closing there may not be sufficient compression to burn all the fuel.

I would also be concerned about this situation causing burnt valves/valve seats.

"Typically an exhaust valve problem, burnt valves are usually the result of hot combustion gasses escaping between the valve and valve seat when they don’t seal properly. Adequate sealing between the two also allows combustion heat to be conducted from the valve and into the seat, preventing the valve from overheating."

From Valve Decoder: What are Your Engine Valves Trying to Tell You? (http://www.onallcylinders.com/2015/10/22/valve-decoder-what-are-your-engine-valves-trying-to-tell-you/)

[Ekus]

I've just read a similar article hours ago while searching in Google for posts about bad valves adjustment and smoke problems, it made me feel scary really. I will go to buy new discs before that problem occur.
THANKS:)

[Ekus]

Some updates:

That high pop injection pressure is not good for the stock turbo really... idles fine, sounds fine but when under load engine does not work well, smokes a lot and seems to have less power. I set injectors back to 160bar with 1mm pump advance, engine now runs fine! no smoke at all once warmed up, and good power delivery.
I did a compression test and found no leaks beetween cylinders, 4bar pressure difference beetween individual cylinders. It starts almost inmediatly, good engine!

Problem i have now is the clutch and maybe flywheel, whining under load and judder in reverse... Valve cover was leaking oil when i bought the truck, but no little oil drips, but an oil squirt! that oil was entering in the clutch housing, trashing the clutch disc(and surely flywheel)completely. I will go to remove gearbox next days...

I have a doubt about the cooling system...what's the correct coolant for this engine? i read some about 50% coolant and water... i filled it with 100% G12 coolant, is there any problem with it?

THANKS

[RedArrow]

I use Zerex G-05. I hope you can find it. I bought the `unmixed` Zerex so I mixed it 50-50 (60-40?) with **DISTILLED** water. Also available to buy, a pre-mixed `50-50` diluted version.

http://content.valvoline.com/pdf/zerex_g05.pdf

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ZEREX-ZXG051-Antifreeze-G05-1-Gal-Yellow-/381021719805?hash=item58b6aa0cfd:g:oPoAAOSwFMZWrA9 W&vxp=mtr



About the valve cover (maybe you already have this?)...

Try to stay away from the cork type gaskets which are usually more than one piece gaskets. Crap. And they leak a lot.

Highly recommended to use the one-piece rubber gasket, great quality, no leaks, you`ll see. Usually available as `GOETZE`, FCPEuro and Am@zon have it for sale.
See them both, here:

https://www.fcpeuro.com/Volvo-parts/244?year=1982&e=913&m=4&keywords=valve%20cover%20gasket


Yes, the shitty leaky ones are cheaper... but not reusable VS the rubber 1-piece gasket that IS reusable, @ $25-30.

[ngoma]

That high pop injection pressure is not good for the stock turbo really...
Well I was wondering why you wanted that high of a pop anyway. Burning veg oil?

clutch and maybe flywheel, whining under load and judder in reverse... Mine has continued to judder forward and back at takeoff. Even after new clutch disc, pressure plate, 2-surface flywheel resurfacing, two different trannys, new motor mounts, new trans mount. Good Luck!

[Ekus]

I use Zerex G-05. I hope you can find it. I bought the `unmixed` Zerex so I mixed it 50-50 (60-40?) with **DISTILLED** water. Also available to buy, a pre-mixed `50-50` diluted version.

http://content.valvoline.com/pdf/zerex_g05.pdf

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ZEREX-ZXG051-Antifreeze-G05-1-Gal-Yellow-/381021719805?hash=item58b6aa0cfd:g:oPoAAOSwFMZWrA9 W&vxp=mtr



About the valve cover (maybe you already have this?)...

Try to stay away from the cork type gaskets which are usually more than one piece gaskets. Crap. And they leak a lot.

Highly recommended to use the one-piece rubber gasket, great quality, no leaks, you`ll see. Usually available as `GOETZE`, FCPEuro and Am@zon have it for sale.
See them both, here:

https://www.fcpeuro.com/Volvo-parts/244?year=1982&e=913&m=4&keywords=valve%20cover%20gasket


Yes, the shitty leaky ones are cheaper... but not reusable VS the rubber 1-piece gasket that IS reusable, @ $25-30.

I think it will be hard to me finding that coolant, much easier the G12 coolant, but thanks for your help!
I always use 100% G12 in my TDI with perfect results, and with no corrosion at all. Do you think that way is correct for the D24T or will be better mixing it with distiiled water?

First thing i did for fixing that valve cover oil leak was buying the good rubber gasket and tightening nuts to 10Nm, after reading about it in this forum, it is so much better! It's the same kind of gasket that TDIs have.

:)

[Ekus]

Well I was wondering why you wanted that high of a pop anyway. Burning veg oil?

Mine has continued to judder forward and back at takeoff. Even after new clutch disc, pressure plate, 2-surface flywheel resurfacing, two different trannys, new motor mounts, new trans mount. Good Luck!

I just did not care about it when i bought them, they cost me almost nothing, and i firstly thought they have no too much pressure increase at all... but i made a mistake really!:p

Ok, seems that judder is invincible:o I don't care too much about it really, but whining/hauling is other thing, i need fix that, it's horrible:eek::D and it has a really bad smelling
I will remove gearbox next week...i will tell you :)

[Ekus]

I know your volvo's have wax operated cold start device, but can you help me with my manual cold start device please?
I don't know how do i have to use it correctly... i read it's necessary to use it when engine cold and ambient temps are above 15F, pulling it out, waiting for glow plugs light off, starting engine and pushing it in once engine warmed.
Is it necessary to push throtle 1/3 of its travel while cranking if CSD is used?

is the glow plug light turning on a sign of the need of using the cold start device? I mean, if glow plug light is not lighting, do i have to use the CSD? I know when engine is hot CSD in not used, but what if engine is warm(not hot) and glow plugs light is not lightning?

(excuse me my bad english please:o)

Thanks

[745 TurboGreasel]

Most of the non waxstat cold start devices I have seen, the linkage bumps the idle as needed.

It is not an on /off thing, but a proportional control ...tapers off as engine warms. It doesn't get much below freezing here, and I've never had one that worked. I think my VW caddy had a cable operated one, but I never needed it.

[Ekus]

I live in warm climate, maybe i could start engine without it, but using it engine starts by only touching the key,its amazing! If engine is hot it starts the same without using it. I found when engine is cold but not enough for the glow plug lights turn on, the best is to just pull a little the knob and then start the engine, and pushing the knob once the engine is running.

I have a little problem with black smoke in third gear if pulling, what can i do for fixing it? is the smoke screw in top of the pump the way for reducing it? I can pull it in second gear with almost no smoke, but when pulling it in third gear it smokes black. I have a boost gauge and i can not see almost boost when pulling, maybe 0.2 or 0.3 bar... I did not change the o-rings of the turbo to manifold pipe... is there an air leak maybe that is producing that problem? or do you think is a pump adjustment screws issue related? Timing is spot on

Thanks

[ngoma]

Recently I posted some links to IP tuning, LDA tuning, look around in some recent threads, you'll find it. Talks about smoke at different boost levels and how to adjust for it. No time for me to find it for you right now, sorry.

[Ekus]

I found it, it's in the 'Hazing d24t' thread http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/more_power/Power_ve.htm

Very good info. I will try to make some adjustments, i will mark before the original positions. Thanks