Coolant hose failed

[RedArrow]

Posted to wrong section? Luckily my diesel didn`t die!!

It`s almost `ocd` but I check things under the hood before and after every trip (to see/hear/find any imperfections,fluid levels,wiring issues,hoses,leaks (if any),etc.
`Bad news` … On a long distance fishing-camping trip this weekend, fish not biting, …so I couldn`t catch a damn thing but a tiny coolant `leak` which I`m not going to underestimate at this point. Good catch! Good news that I found it. but… I`m having a hard time finding the proper hose itself though… it`s the one that runs from the nipple at Upper Rad hose towards Inj.Pump. At 50mph in 4th, Climbing the Verrazano Br on the way home, I noticed a 1millimeter hike at the temp gauge (less pressure thx to hole on hose??) so I said wtf it`s always been steady&it`s definitely not what it usually shows. Normally I have it slightly below middle, but needle was at middle now. No overheating, no issues, but this hose must go!
Any info/ideas appreciated (quick temporary fix by silicone tape, rubber glue , grandma`s apricot jam, etc, idk) :)
What I see: There`s a very small hole (visible when hose is bent or squeezed) that lets some coolant out which then evaporates I guess, and leaves yellowish residue behind (that`s how I noticed the leak, it looked similar to oxidization or some foamy glue or whatever, see pict) I use Zerex G-05 coolant btw.
There`s no coolant missing. Actually,Talking about the last 6-700 miles recently, I did have to fill up exp tank yesterday because level was somewhat half an inch lower than `max` which I`m religiously trying to maintain if needed. Both clamps carved into hose pretty badly, ends of hose are aged,may be brittle. I`ve been keeping an eye at this mean thing for 2yrs... time to get it out asap.
Label on hose says VOLVO 1257446 7462 1284 (I guess it`s the 1257446 that matters)
Some websites describe it as a part for 240/260 Diesel Volvos, under the same part number. Why? Some sites say 240/260/700 Volvos use same part number. I never found a great photo on these sites to see/compare what they are selling.

At www.Scandix.de there`s a 1040364 Product #. I`m confused. Best suggestion on a temp fix?
I`d love to have a Volvo part installed asap. Please share if you know about the source.
Whoever has engine out now…Could you please measure exact inner and outer diameters of both ends of this hose OR both nipples it goes onto? Thank you in advance!! If you have one, I of course pay for shipping it to NY

I cant find it listed here
http://www.swedishautoparts.com/740/Volvo-740-heating-&-cooling-hoses.html#linkbar

These guys say it is no longer available. Here they call it Part # 1328973 (???)
http://www.volvopartswebstore.com/products/Hose/1202732/1257446.html

Tasca has it????????????is this the right one???
http://www.tascaparts.com/oe-volvo/1257446

Best way to fix it? Idk. Here`s some ideas.
http://www.viperperformance.co.uk/subcats.php?xctId=35

This is NOT the one, I think.
http://www.skandix.de/en/spare-parts/cooling-system/hoses/radiator-hose-cylinder-head-t-piece/1022971/

PLEASE COMMENT!

[casioqv]

Don't fix it with thin walled aluminum pipe, that will be a possible corrosion issue long term. Those pipes are suitable for air only, not coolant. Since this hose goes from the IP to the head, stiffness isn't a concern so you can replace it with stiffer than stock hose or pipe.

If I were you, I would just get a brass or copper size adapter that adapts from the size on one end of the hose to the other. Then you can run regular off the shelf coolant hose from any auto parts store. You could solder this yourself from copper pipe fittings, or buy one at most industrial hose supply stores.

In the short term, you can make the hose survive until you get a replacement going by wrapping it in a layer of "hose repair tape" as sold in truck stops, then wrap diagonally in two directions with dental floss, and then wrap again with a layer of hose repair tape. I've done this on hoses before, and suspect even the worst hoses would survive months of normal use with this treatment. I never drive an old diesel anywhere without this tape and dental floss in the glove box.

Another option is to just remove the cold start device and cap off it's hoses. I don't know how well that would work in your climate, but in warmer areas I think it would be fine.

[v8volvo]

I have a handful of good used hoses -- that would probably be your quickest option. Send a PM if that would be of interest to you. :)

This piece is NLA from Volvo, unfortunately, but also not hard to make your own if needed, as casioqv suggested.

[RedArrow]

I have a handful of good used hoses -- that would probably be your quickest option. Send a PM if that would be of interest to you. :)

This piece is NLA from Volvo, unfortunately, but also not hard to make your own if needed, as casioqv suggested.

Thanks for the quick answer guys. I figured it will be not too easy to find it.:)) Tasca lists it but there`s no picture of the item so I cant compare. It might be another volvo item with the same part number? i dont know.

I do not know sizes either, could one of you measure inner&outer diameters at both ends of hose, please? (Or, at the point where it goes onto)
I`d have to remove &measure myself but I wouldn`t get car off the road until I`m ready for the fix (time&proper hoses---measurements needed).
Also, I got worried some about those air pocket in cooling system issues I was reading a lot about, here on the forum.

Isn`t this leak (near, or...) at the highest point of the entire cooling system?... that suggests to me that it might be a `lucky spot` to have a hole at, therefore it might not be `so` rocket science to get it off, putting in new unit (2hoses with an adapter (or a T) between them) without losing much coolant, maybe, then using your best d24t-pro way/method to get all air out, guys (suggestions welcome!) Probably I should do a flush too but let`s deal with 1 issue at a time.
I didn`t have overheating at all, just noticed that ugly hose , the clamp eating into it , plus now it`s leaking. :)

Why am I thinking that easiest way would be to get hoses onto each end, let them meet at middle where u would see either a compression fitting or a copper connector/ adapter/reduced/splicer
Would it be useful having some type of a valve in there?...pointing up maybe? that could be an access point for later service, if some `checkups` needed.

Interestingly, I found a picture of a TD volvo, called SoDak, on a forum, there I saw a pic showing same hose being home made, 3sections joined by `50lbs of clamps`:) or a T? ...looks it`s been functioning properly &holding on safely.
Comments needed . Thanks.:)

Don't fix it with thin walled aluminum pipe, that will be a possible corrosion issue long term.
TRUE! Thanks!

If I were you, I would just get a brass or copper size adapter that adapts from the size on one end of the hose to the other. Then you can run regular off the shelf coolant hose from any auto parts store.
I was thinking about same solution.

In the short term, you can make the hose survive until you get a replacement going by wrapping it in a layer of "hose repair tape" as sold in truck stops, then wrap diagonally in two directions with dental floss, and then wrap again with a layer of hose repair tape. I've done this on hoses before, and suspect even the worst hoses would survive months of normal use with this treatment. I never drive an old diesel anywhere without this tape and dental floss in the glove box.
Wow. I`m surprised. Dental floss...nice. Will put that into the toolbox! thx for sharing!

Another option is to just remove the cold start device and cap off it's hoses. I don't know how well that would work in your climate, but in warmer areas I think it would be fine.
I`d stay away from that thing if possible. Idea is good if there was nothing else to do. I love to hear from people how they deal with d24 issues
Sorry forumers, I still dont know how to do multiple quotes properly.

[RedArrow]

:eek::rolleyes:Fantastic! Thank you in advance. Who else would have NLA brickparts at home?V8volvo!:) Thank you for offering the part! I`ll buy one of them I think.
would you measure inner diameters of the hose please?
(I have to visit H0meDep0t anyways, I`ll still look around a bit there )

Solution or not? to push them together according to picture? using a copper pipe inside smaller id hose. ?

[ngoma]

Why am I thinking that easiest way would be to get the hoses onto each end, let them meet at middle where u would see either a compression fitting or a copper connector/ adapter/
Yes this would work, simple to execute. No need for a compression fitting, I see hose size adapters in various sizes all the time at the auto parts store, usually in the "Help" section. A straight-thru section of tubing with different OD sizes either side (ex. 1/2" OD one side, 3/4" OD other side). Don't drive yourself crazy trying to get exact exact sizes, as the rubber hoses are able to stretch or clamp down quite a bit.

Would it be useful having some type of a valve in there?...pointing up maybe? that could be an access point for later service, if some `checkups` needed.
Can't think of any reason for this. Remember, extra valves, hose connections, clamps, etc. introduce more points for failure.

Drain about a quart into a container should be sufficient to not lose any when replacing that hose. Later you can filter it (I use easily available coffee machine filters) and re-add it.

Trapped air bubble is not the big problem you're making it out to be. Here's how to avoid it:
When filling coolant system, leave the hose disconnected from that IP coldsart waxstat housing (the upper fitting).
Fill coolant system. When coolant flows from the housing fitting connect and secure the hose.
Continue to fill the coolant system until full.

[RedArrow]

A straight-thru section of tubing with different OD sizes either side (ex. 1/2" OD one side, 3/4" OD other side). Don't drive yourself crazy trying to get exact exact sizes, as the rubber hoses are able to stretch or clamp down quite a bit.

Not yet found the right thing; having removed the failed hose for measuring i figured that heater hose size 1/2 InnerDiameter works at cold start device side, 3/4 hose ID size works right at upper rad hose. Some adapter will be fabricated/found asap.I`ll ask v8 to sell me one of his used ones too.

Remember, extra valves, hose connections, clamps, etc. introduce more points for failure.

Very true, I completely agree. No need for extra junk. We dont need complicated things in these ancient machines. Thanks God the Only computer in it is my laptop.

I removed the hose, measured both ends, bought heater hoses 1/2 and 3/4, tried them on, next step is getting some adapter (to connect them at middle) which I couldn`t locate today anywhere, car shops and plumbing supply stores didn`t have the right one. Unbelievable it is. Air out, old hose back, hunt continues.
Hose is hard at the end, also cracked a bit under clamp, rusty, scratched, has a hole that leaks. Nipple at CS device has some missing edge which is not a big deal I think. Both nipples were covered with hard, thick residue that looks like limescale.
ps. I`d prefer a 1-piece adapter, not a soldered copper thing. joke: to avoid the extra weight :)(uglyness) of the clamps added :) so car can run faster.:)
ps.2. i`m thinking if it works to have a 2or3inch copper piece pushed into the smaller diameter hose (1/2), than pushing this whole thing into bigger 3/4 ID hose then put 2 quality clamps on. Basically rubber-on-rubber type of connection with an inside stabilizer copper hose that would not let it collapse when clamps are tightened. IDK. might be a funny looking risky setup, never did it before on any of our diesels. Anybody does/did same thing before?see picts 2 posts above.

Also `bothers me` that the direction of flow there is `fat to thin`. (towards CS device)

[ngoma]

Both nipples were covered with hard, thick residue that looks like limescale.
Granular green on the outside of the fittings is most likely dried antifreeze coolant. It may have been seeping from there. Otherwise, you'll want to investigate any other apparent corrosion. Change antifreeze at recommended intervals; don't use well water or hard water (or mineral water); check engine grounding connections & wires (that one behind the A/C compressor/ power steering pump is susceptible to corrosion) and do a check for electrolysis. (http://www.ve-labs.net/electrolysis-101/how-to-test)

[RedArrow]

Granular green on the outside of the fittings is most likely dried antifreeze coolant. It may have been seeping from there. Otherwise, you'll want to investigate any other apparent corrosion. Change antifreeze at recommended intervals; don't use well water or hard water (or mineral water); check engine grounding connections & wires (that one behind the A/C compressor/ power steering pump is susceptible to corrosion) and do a check for electrolysis. (http://www.ve-labs.net/electrolysis-101/how-to-test)

Yes, I will, last one is a great idea, informative website. I cant recall any coolant leaks there but a few drops at a `T` somewhere near/under VacuumPump long ago, caused by a rusty clamp down there...

I use Zerex G-05 only. If I had to add fluid for some rare reason, I used distilled water only, not mineral or purified etc junks. I`ll want coolant replaced soon (i wish i had more time), radiator flushed and one more thing that`s important. As far as I remember, PO told me that rear hose behind block hasn`t been replaced when engine was out so I`ll have a posting about that when time comes...

I`ll check all ground points, thanks, although that has been done pretty well when my ignition switch became an angry b.tch, so I got stranded in a hotel bsmt in Daytona Beach, FL :) Not bad...and I had to analyze lots of things to see electric issues , if any. A full disassembly of ign switch later solved the problem. WD40 & dashboard shine was found inside it. (yes, me)
So grounds are ok but will check again. Removed&Cleaned them that time...

Most of the time my alternator is pushing out 14-15V , I mean, that`s what I always see on instrument cluster gauge. Needle Might be at too high. Why?* idk. I like the idea of that coolant sponge that absorbs the extra. *Battery might be shit? Car starts always for the very first crank, even in -20celsius. I`ll check battery too.

[RedArrow]

Above mentioned heater hose started dripping coolant constantly (when engine running)...so...Homemade solution got installed today, I hope it`s not too `jerry-built`... (?)
Thicker hose (upper radiator hose side) is 3/4 ID, thinner hose (coldstart device side) is 1/2 ID. They are connected at middle by a copper junction (3/4 to 1/2 1-piece copper reducer used with 1.5 inch of 1/2 pipe soldered into it.
Swedish ABA clamps... BUT THE PIPES are totally straight&smooth--> I know the best would be to ROLL BEAD the tube!!
:confused:RIGHT? (creating an edge so hoses wouldn`t have any chance of sliding off)

[RedArrow]

Killing time, fixing/rerouting some wiring, cleaning under hood, fixing-installing the never-worked-before `engine light`, then testing how nicely it works; I look down-->what do I see?
Picture #4. Yes, the rear hose, covered in greasy poo. Ugly?Yes. Dangerous? What?!=yes!! Hose in Bad cond?idk yet.
Searching for reasons, Thinking I`m in need of a new valve cover gasket, etc, checking inj.pump to see any leaks etc, I explored another issue that also helped my d24t getting all that oily crap on it....:) Pict #5.
Is that hose still available? How about our rear heater hose?
Thanks for commenting.

[RedArrow]

Since this hose goes from the IP to the head, stiffness isn't a concern so you can replace it with stiffer than stock hose or pipe.


Thanks for the advice. I was real lazy to try the dental floss solution, I still like it BUT hopefully I`ll never need it on the road!
While waiting for car to warm up& thermostat to open so I can get air` out (after installing my jerry-built hose junction) , I experienced that the direction of flow of Zerex is towards the ip/coldstart device, of course.:)
Thank you forumers for all of your ideas. I hope my posting helps other brickers dealing with d24/d24t issues, so we can save many for later generations. :)))
My before-and-after trip `hood-opening rituals` saved my @s$ again. And the car. Get out there and check things under hood.I mean, constantly. You have a 20+ y old BRiCK! :)))

[ngoma]

I know the best would be to ROLL BEAD the tube!!
:confused:RIGHT? (creating an edge so hoses wouldn`t have any chance of sliding off)
Good work. Should be OK. Max coolant pressure is 75kPa (less than 11 PSI) if you're using the black expansion tank cap. Retighten the hose clamps when it is hot and you're good to go.

[ngoma]

...check things under hood.I mean, constantly. You have a 20+ y old BRiCK! :)))
20 years old? I wish! You're off by about 15 years!:D

[RedArrow]

20 years old? I wish! You're off by about 15 years!:D
Yes, of course you`re absolutely right, but I thought, older ladies always like it when you `SET` their age at a bit lower. :)
THANKS.Yes, I have the black exp tank cap. I`ll retighten clamps once car gets up to temp. I need to wait for a while as PS pump is loose, belt is off currently...

for the holiday, f@t Santa Claus visited here and he surprised me with a new tb cover. :) F.ck, he was too fast to leave me a manifold; or maybe i haven`t recently been behaving well.
This stup.d DupliColor engine enamel dries so slowly! I can`t just grab cover (unless wanting to fingerprint it) to install rubber trim/seal/clips/plugs back, not to mention putting cover back on engine... But it does look funky on there. More pictures tomorrow.

[RedArrow]

Spray can chased off ps pulley too :)
Paint`s good match to color code 173-2

[RedArrow]

...issue that helped my d24t getting all that oily crap on it....:) Pict #4 and #5.
Is that hose still available?
Thanks for commenting.

Talking about hoses again...
the one that runs from valve cover towards turbo... The d24t crankcase vent hose became very brittle, it cracked at both ends. After taking a pict, I got rid of it &installed a heater hose as a temp fix, `cause thanks to this crappy hose: the passenger side of engine always got oily mess on it... from underneath the upper clamp...oil escaped, travelled back by the side of valve cover, then down, reaching near rear belt, rear coolant hose etc, leaving oily residue on&around manifold etc.
I`m trying to find the correct part number so I`ll be able to order it. Any info where to order? THX
ps.
hose was put on plastic joint with metal piece being INSIDE the hose.
See picture #4 & #5 in posting #11.

[ngoma]

Volvo P/N 1328650-5

From Volvo 740 parts catalog (http://www.volvotips.com/index.php/740-760-780/volvo-740-parts-catalog/). 17MB download, but well worth it.

Groep 20 Motor; 25 Inlaatsystem, uitlaat; D24 Luchtfilter, page 215

[RedArrow]

Volvo P/N 1328650-5

From Volvo 740 parts catalog (http://www.volvotips.com/index.php/740-760-780/volvo-740-parts-catalog/). ...

Great info, nice find! Thanks a bunch.

[RedArrow]

Good work. Should be OK. Max coolant pressure is 75kPa (less than 11 PSI) if you're using the black expansion tank cap. Retighten the hose clamps when it is hot and you're good to go.

Yes, I have the black one.

Since the fix I drove over 3000 miles and no issues.

The later mentioned `vent hose` (from valve cover towards turbo) deteriorated a lot, so I used a thick-wall heater hose to replace it, temporarily.

[RedArrow]

As the title reads:
The hose failed again. Idk why but all my engines had this hose in bad condition. Maybe because it is located high up or being close to fluids that leak out of some of these cars (fumes, fuel, oil, coolant, and add the heat, the vibration, wrong style/wrong quality clamps used, and some forgotten maintenance) :))

I kept seeing a stained area on the same hose... not far from the upper radiator hose housing, it was a spot that was often wet and usually leaving a mark after drying off. First I couldn't locate the source.

I checked around a few times and even tightened hose clamps after a long cruise (when system was hot) but I kept spotting the same marks later on.
It was the zerex g05 coolant leaking out... I finally found the hole, in the heater hose (not too big but noticable even when car is cold). The thicker hose failed, idk how and why. It was new when I installed it. Appr 3inches away (up)from where the upper radiator hose connects...see pictures. It was hiding underneath...including the leak itself which wasnt visible too much at all. But it was always there.

I made this hose back in '14 after learning that Volvo discontinued this part (it was created using a piece of 3/4 inch inner diameter coolant hose and a 1/2inch ID heater hose jointed by a copper adapter/union).

A few days ago I decided to do it again (I had to).
I searched around a lot on different websites to see something that would work best, easy and cheap, for our d24 and d24t engines and something that would be available off the shelf...i gave up finding a one piece and proper size and length and shape hose...
I ordered some hoses that I thought will work:

A 3/4 inch diameter hose that has a 90degree turn,
A 1/2 inch diameter hose that has a 90degree angle,
And you'll need 4 good quality clamps (i like using ABA fully stainless clamps)
And you need to find/buy/create a strong, preferrably copper (corrosion) piece that connects them.
The 90 angles make it look so much nicer, also, none of the two sides would get twisted or pressured by being bent.
Also, you can customize the length for yourself by cutting off some of the short ends of both hoses (this way the unit wont sit higher than your expension tank/reservoir.

All these parts should be inexpensive at any parts store.
The heater hoses are made by Gates, pictures show part numbers. They were $6-9 per piece. It was a very nice exact fit at the radiator hose end, pretty good at the cold start thermostat end too.

I'm happy I found it and now it should be able to hold for at least a couple of years. It looks okay and this section of hose npw sits so stable. Also, very convenient to work around it in case you need to touch the hard fuel lines or the return lines.
There is no chafing bc this hose has that 90 angle. It makes all the difference, the previous solution was not as good and not as good looking.

See the pictures and check yours!
PS. While at the cooling system, I got the thermostat out and installed a new one (87°C made by WAHLER).
The car hasn't had cooling problems or overheating issues but occasionally I saw the gauge needle climb up a millimeter towards the hot zone (it left the optimum "very middle" position) on a few long trips when I was loaded and trying to keep 65-70mph uphill but of course I couldn't (=didn't want to harm the engine in any way, blow a hose or get any issues far away from home).

It got properly bled and now I'm so curious to know how (if) this project helps.
Especially because I had some injector difficulties that also finally got solved a few days ago (maybe I'll post a new thread later).
The 1/2 size hose with 90turn haven't yet arrived by today so I used standard/straight 1/2inch ID hose to get it back on the road again (I like the idea of the angles bc I want to cut some of the ends so the whole thing will be "lower"...and you cant go much lower when using straight hoses)

Happy Dieseling everyone...and keep posting!

[ngoma]

Might be worth checking for possible Electrolysis Corrosion condition.

"Radiator and heater hoses can also fail from the inside out due to electrolysis corrosion. Rubber is normally non-conductive so you would think this would be impossible. But the coolant can react electrochemically with the synthetic rubber, causing it to degenerate, pit, crack and eventually fail. If you cut open a hose that has failed because of electrolysis, the inside will usually have fissures, cracks and pits created by the electrochemical attack."

http://www.aa1car.com/library/cooling_system_electrolysis_corrosion.htm

More helpful info:

http://www.sancarlosradiator.com/VoltageDrop/education.htm

[RedArrow]

Thank you for this great information.

Both links are very interesting and useful articles. It could be part of this Forum's "cooling system /maintenance" sticky.

I'll do the above mentioned test and monitor the cooling system even more than before.

[RedArrow]

Someone asked me to post this for the part #s.
I am hoping it is the correct part!!!!

80°Celsius version.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F23 1657214551

[ngoma]

No that is not a good one for the D24, as it is pictured. Look at the side profile photo. Notice the lack of the bypass closing disk. That would allow a significant amount of coolant to continue to cycle thru the engine after reaching operating temperature, without being sent thru the radiator.

This one (https://www.ebay.com/p/Engine-Radiator-Coolant-Thermostat-Fits-Porsche-944-968-94410601900/658504948?iid=292256219817&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D2%2 6asc%3D49918%26meid%3D259bc81c77324e3fb69a18035d0b 99c6%26pid%3D100623%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D2316 57214551%26itm%3D292256219817&_trksid=p2047675.c100623.m-1) looks more like the correct one (notice the bypass disk on the engine block side), although it might not be a name brand Wahler like the one you linked, and does not have a small air bleed hole (which is much less important than a bypass blocking disk ;).)

[Goteborg Vapenfabrik]

What about part number Wahler 4088.80D? Seems to be the same as VW Audi 035 121 113. This is the 80 degree thermostat for Audi 80 90 100 200 4000 5000 back to 1978, including the D20 five cylinder diesel variant. This part will be around for a long time. :D

[RedArrow]

No that is not a good one for the D24, as it is pictured. Look at the side profile photo. Notice the lack of the bypass closing disk. That would allow a significant amount of coolant to continue to cycle thru the engine after reaching operating temperature, without being sent thru the radiator.

This one (https://www.ebay.com/p/Engine-Radiator-Coolant-Thermostat-Fits-Porsche-944-968-94410601900/658504948?iid=292256219817&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D2%2 6asc%3D49918%26meid%3D259bc81c77324e3fb69a18035d0b 99c6%26pid%3D100623%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D2316 57214551%26itm%3D292256219817&_trksid=p2047675.c100623.m-1) looks more like the correct one (notice the bypass disk on the engine block side), although it might not be a name brand Wahler like the one you linked, and does not have a small air bleed hole (which is much less important than a bypass blocking disk ;).)

Ouch! You are so right about that bypass blocking disc!
I'm sorry for not noticing that difference!
I continued searching today and found this one:
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F12 3005152200
Made by Wähler, 80°C and it has the bypass blocking disc.