Recommendation needed: Injection Pump Rebuild

[CapnSass]

Looking for someone to rebuild an injection pump. Any recommendations?? Shipping out isn't a problem. Thanks.

[ngoma]

Bummer. What happened to it?

If you want modifications, send it to Giles. Otherwise, there are several diesel injector/ injection pump shops in (closer to you) Oregon but let's wait for member v8volvo to tell which OR shop rebuilt (a few times?) one (some?) of his that turned out to be leakers shortly afterward. So maybe you can avoid them, even though the price was good.

[v8volvo]

Yes, I had DFIS in Portland rebuild a D24T pump for me several years ago that has been a lemon ever since -- runs fine but I had to replace advance piston cover gaskets on it within the first 15 months (both sides at different times -- including the inner side, which is a pain!), and then just last fall the shaft seal sprung a large leak for no visible reason so I had to change that as well. Now have about 40,000 miles on it in ~4 years and have had it off the motor at least twice since it was overhauled -- not fun!

I have had DFIS rebuild many TDI pumps and a number of other older VE pumps over the years and this was the first and only one of theirs I have ever had a problem with, so I I suspect they may have just gotten unlucky with some old or subpar parts when they put this one together. I don't think it was their fault. I still hold them in high regard and wouldn't hesitate to use them.

Another option for a really good rebuild on a mechanical VE, I would recommend Central Motive Power in Denver, CO. A former colleague of mine is their senior fuel shop tech, a guy with a lot of skill who actually enjoys building VE pumps (most techs don't!) and knows how to get the extra cold start bits, etc on a D24T pump right (most techs don't!). Just make sure you tell them to build your pump to sea level spec if you send it to them, since most of the work they do is for customers in the Rocky Mountain area and they usually set the pumps up accordingly.

Nevertheless, I'm also curious, why do you think it needs rebuilt? Rebuilds are expensive ($600-800) and in truth, are very rarely necessary, usually only in the case of abnormal abuse/damage.

What are your symptoms?

[CapnSass]

Yes, I had DFIS in Portland rebuild a D24T pump for me several years ago that has been a lemon ever since -- runs fine but I had to replace advance piston cover gaskets on it within the first 15 months (both sides at different times -- including the inner side, which is a pain!), and then just last fall the shaft seal sprung a large leak for no visible reason so I had to change that as well. Now have about 40,000 miles on it in ~4 years and have had it off the motor at least twice since it was overhauled -- not fun!

I have had DFIS rebuild many TDI pumps and a number of other older VE pumps over the years and this was the first and only one of theirs I have ever had a problem with, so I I suspect they may have just gotten unlucky with some old or subpar parts when they put this one together. I don't think it was their fault. I still hold them in high regard and wouldn't hesitate to use them.

Another option for a really good rebuild on a mechanical VE, I would recommend Central Motive Power in Denver, CO. A former colleague of mine is their senior fuel shop tech, a guy with a lot of skill who actually enjoys building VE pumps (most techs don't!) and knows how to get the extra cold start bits, etc on a D24T pump right (most techs don't!). Just make sure you tell them to build your pump to sea level spec if you send it to them, since most of the work they do is for customers in the Rocky Mountain area and they usually set the pumps up accordingly.

Nevertheless, I'm also curious, why do you think it needs rebuilt? Rebuilds are expensive ($600-800) and in truth, are very rarely necessary, usually only in the case of abnormal abuse/damage.

What are your symptoms?

Thanks for the info! I'll check out DFIS today.

I purchased the pump from a Washington repair shop who was selling it for a customer/friend. They reported it as working, removed from a perfectly running vehicle with no leaks. Received the pump as promised and installed the pump. We had a heck of a time trying to get the car to run afterwards. We didn't have the timing tools but followed the manual & the guys doing it are competent & familiar with diesels of this sort. Anyway, after trying and trying took it to our diesel mechanic buddy who reported back that the pump is no good.

As far as symptoms... I am going to describe these to the best of my listening-in or overhearing girlie-self can. Symptoms we encountered were either black smoke or white smoke depending on where the pump was timed. Then we had trouble with the throttle, as in no throttle control (push on gas, does nothing). After hours of fussing with it, the boys decided to break and sleep on it. They decided to call in the diesel mechanic friend.

I didn't speak directly to the diesel mechanic friend but what I overheard & understood was that he the same problems with the throttle control, or lack of. The pump doesn't respond to the order for more or less fuel.

So.... I also have another pump (the one that came with the car) up at Oregon Fuel Injection. It was leaking, I sent it up for a reseal, they won't reseal because some internal component is "flaking". At that time found out I was missing my cold start advance module-thing therefore the total cost of the rebuild and replace cold start advance (so they could properly test it) was $1100. This was a little steep & I had just found the listing for the "working" pump in Washington ($500) which came with glow plugs, injectors, and fuel lines. I went this route to save a buck (which now really isn't going to).

I've had such bum luck with injection pumps. My IP drama has been going on for months now. I've just about used up all my time with borrowing vehicles (thanks dad & friend's dad). I was really hoping the purchased pump would present no troubles.

I hope I've provided enough translatable details. Thanks again for all your input. I'm in love with my wagon but this shiz is wearing on me. I suppose if I had another car it wouldn't be so bad...

[anders]

I have a rebuilt low mile D24 injection pump if you are interested, I ran the engine myself, I know the pump is GOOD...

[v8volvo]

Thanks for the info! I'll check out DFIS today.

We had a heck of a time trying to get the car to run afterwards. We didn't have the timing tools but followed the manual & the guys doing it are competent & familiar with diesels of this sort. Anyway, after trying and trying took it to our diesel mechanic buddy who reported back that the pump is no good.

As far as symptoms... I am going to describe these to the best of my listening-in or overhearing girlie-self can. Symptoms we encountered were either black smoke or white smoke depending on where the pump was timed. Then we had trouble with the throttle, as in no throttle control (push on gas, does nothing). After hours of fussing with it, the boys decided to break and sleep on it. They decided to call in the diesel mechanic friend.

I didn't speak directly to the diesel mechanic friend but what I overheard & understood was that he the same problems with the throttle control, or lack of. The pump doesn't respond to the order for more or less fuel.

What repair manual were you following for installing the pump, the Volvo green manual or something different? What exact steps did the mechanics take to set the injection timing -- was it all "by feel" or visual? Did the motor have a lot of difficulty starting even after the fuel system was re-primed?

The problems you're describing could possibly be due to an internal injection pump problem, sticking throttle control can result from that, I have seen it once or twice on pumps that sat "uncorked" for a long time where old fuel exposed to air turned into gum. (How long ago was this IP removed from a good-running motor?)

However, your symptoms can absolutely also be a result of unsuccessful installation and timing of an otherwise-healthy injection pump. In particular, the fact that the inability to control engine speed is paired with excessive smoke makes me strongly question how the pump was installed and timed. Those two symptoms have separate causes, and having them together is pretty unusual. I think it is more likely, or at least very possible, that the pump is fine and the problem lies with how it was set up.

At this point, before taking any other steps, I really suggest getting *all* of the correct tools and information and verifying beyond any doubt that the pump is installed and timed correctly, by going through the complete timing procedure from start to finish. Right now you're running blind; the pump might be the problem, but it might not. It's a lot less work (and money!) to figure out where you sit now, and then make an informed decision about what steps to take next, than it is to blindly change the pump again and possibly find that the pump was not the problem!

The tools you need are readily available to buy for under $50: here is a good-quality ZDMak set for $49 http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Tools-Bosch-Diesel-Timing-VW-Audi-Holder-Dial-Guage-Item-423131141-/171029170796?hash=item27d2220a6c&item=171029170796&pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&vxp=mtr Or, there are several members on this forum, myself included, who will be happy to loan you their set for free (with deposit in my case).

Beyond that, all you need is the step-by-step procedure for checking injection timing. This can be found in the D24 or D24T green books, both of which can be viewed in their entirety online at a number of sources, including this one: http://www.k-jet.org/files/greenbooks/200/Section%202%20-%20Engine/TP30420-1_d20_d24_repairs.pdf

The procedure has also been discussed extensively here on the forum, and you can find many tips about it if you want to do some reading. Here is one post that goes through it in detail:
http://www.d24t.com/showpost.php?p=6253&postcount=16
And another thread: http://www.d24t.com/showthread.php?t=928
And you'll find many more if you look around the "Engine" or "Help!" sections a bit.

Be sure to use the procedures that describe how to just *check* the timing, not those that describe how to adjust it. At this point, all you want to do is establish where it is set now, as a baseline. If it needs to be changed, you will do that after determining where it is set now.

Other notes:

Did you remember what we mentioned about the "in" and "out" banjo bolts for the fuel supply and return? If these are reversed, inability to increase engine speed above idle and excessive smoke are the typical effects, so check this again carefully.
How recent is your fuel filter? Any air in the translucent fuel line from the filter to the IP inlet when the motor is running?
Pay close attention, when checking timing, to the position of the *camshaft* as well as the crankshaft. The crank turns over twice for every revolution of the cam, so therefore it is possible to install the injection pump 180 degrees out of phase even though it appears to be timed correctly with reference to the crank. Often in these cases the engine will start (with difficulty) and run, but will have very limited control over engine speed and smoke copiously. Sound familiar? :) You can easily verify whether the cam is at #1 TDC by checking whether the vacuum pump pushrod is at maximum or minimum extension when the crank is at TDC. (You'll have the vacuum pump removed anyway to install the dial indicator in the IP.)
If you find that the timing is out of spec, check back here on the forum for tips on how to adjust it. There are a number of different methods, and some are easier than others.
Most important: DO NOT allow anyone to use STARTING FLUID, or ether, to start the engine, even if they are very frustrated or they believe it will help! Ether causes immediate major engine damage to D24 family engines (as well as many others). It absolutely must not be used under any circumstances.


So, you have some ways you can move forward towards getting it fixed here. Diagnose it before you buy any more parts! Let us know how we can help! :)

[ngoma]

We didn't have the timing tools but followed the manual & the guys doing it are competent & familiar with diesels of this sort.
Could this be the problem? Tell us how you timed it. Which manual did you follow?

[CapnSass]

Could this be the problem? Tell us how you timed it. Which manual did you follow?

After reading the info above from v8volvo, this is most likely the problem. :)

[CapnSass]

v8volvo - holy schmolies!! what a wealth of information. I cannot thank you enough for the sharing of your knowledge & your time to draft such a great & helpful response. I am taking this to both my guys & to the mechanic buddy. Looks like I am in the market for the *right tools*.

In reference to the 180 degrees, out... I remember the guys swapping the whatever back and forth, mentioning that it was 180 degrees off, & working with TDC, so yes, it sounds very familiar.

I am now hopeful that I do not have to find another or rebuild a pump.

Hugs all around!!! (yes, 'cause I'm one of those happy girls like that)

[ngoma]

Hold on! I like hugs too but if you would answer his question:
What repair manual were you following for installing the pump, the Volvo green manual or something different? What exact steps did the mechanics take to set the injection timing -- was it all "by feel" or visual?
Then we would have a MUCH better idea of what to suggest to you to make this a less painful situation and arrive at a solid solution.

We WANT to help you.

We CAN help you.

We WILL help you, if:::::::::::::::::::::::: you play along with the 20 questions game. There is a certain "best" method to installing the injection pump and timing it. ANYTHING ELSE will end up with big problems (as you are seeing now) and is the cause for premature deaths of many of these cars. It is not so complicated but it is "out of the ordinary" for most mechanics and many think they can get the job done using methods that have worked for years on other cars. But, here even good intentions can cause bad results.

This engine will not run well if it is not timed correctly. To time it correctly requires the proper (specialty) tools, and following the correct method in the correct order. NO CHEATING! Unless you are lucky.:D

So let's approach this like a science problem, take a step at a time, observe, note the results, and report back.

Again,
What repair manual were you following for installing the pump, the Volvo green manual or something different? What exact steps did the mechanics take to set the injection timing -- was it all "by feel" or visual?
Please answer and watch how we start making progress!

[CapnSass]

Hold on! I like hugs too but if you would answer his question:

Then we would have a MUCH better idea of what to suggest to you to make this a less painful situation and arrive at a solid solution.

We WANT to help you.

We CAN help you.

We WILL help you, if:::::::::::::::::::::::: you play along with the 20 questions game. There is a certain "best" method to installing the injection pump and timing it. ANYTHING ELSE will end up with big problems (as you are seeing now) and is the cause for premature deaths of many of these cars. It is not so complicated but it is "out of the ordinary" for most mechanics and many think they can get the job done using methods that have worked for years on other cars. But, here even good intentions can cause bad results.

This engine will not run well if it is not timed correctly. To time it correctly requires the proper (specialty) tools, and following the correct method in the correct order. NO CHEATING! Unless you are lucky.:D

So let's approach this like a science problem, take a step at a time, observe, note the results, and report back.

Again,

Please answer and watch how we start making progress!

We were using an aftermarket manual... I think:confused::confused::confused:. The book is out at the shop. I know it's not a green book but don't remember exactly what. Maybe just a chiltons or something.:D This is all a very big learning experience. I've got the timing dial tool on the way. I've been told the diesel mechanic's methods are pretty solid but as you've mentioned above, I am not confident he used the proper methods or just methods that have worked on various diesel engines.

We did try switching the 'in' and 'out' banjo bolts as suggested by v8volvo which didn't change the results. Also installed a new fuel filter and double checked the line contained no air bubbles.

also wanted to apologize for being intermittent with my responses. The vehicle is about a 15minute drive from my computer. I have my phone but web coverage is spotty and typing away on that little screen is challenging. I am naturally long winded (barely ever have a short answer (I'm Irish, lol)) so you'll be able to tell the difference between my phone replies and computer replies. Either way, I am grateful for all the info and tips shared while getting my volvo up and running.:)

[CapnSass]

Ok, so we are back at the shop today, addressing this beast...

"What repair manual were you following for installing the pump, the Volvo green manual or something different? What exact steps did the mechanics take to set the injection timing -- was it all "by feel" or visual?


I spoke to the diesel guy. He told me that he didn't get as far as timing the pump. It was running but it was running really rough. There WAS NO THROTTLE CONTROL. Because of that he didn't go much further into timing it.


The tools you need are readily available to buy for under $50: here is a good-quality ZDMak set for $49 http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Tools-Bosc..._Tools&vxp=mtr Or, there are several members on this forum, myself included, who will be happy to loan you their set for free (with deposit in my case).


So I've purchased the above from ebay... but it seems that the shaft is too short?? Seriously could be operator error, lol, but we can't seem to figure it out. I swear we aren't nitwits, I promise. I've printed the greenbook section on timing from k-jet.org and the dial in the pictures appears to have a much longer shaft. How long is yours?? (lol, this is kinda a funny conversation).


The problems you're describing could possibly be due to an internal injection pump problem, sticking throttle control can result from that, I have seen it once or twice on pumps that sat "uncorked" for a long time where old fuel exposed to air turned into gum. (How long ago was this IP removed from a good-running motor?)


Just spoke to the shop from where I purchased. It was pulled out of a running vehicle about 18-20 months ago (because vehicle was being converted to WVO). It sat for about a year. The shop picked it up, cleaned it with "diesel clean" (??), sat for 6 months, at which time I purchased it. Upon installation, the pump was primed until fuel was flowing through the lines.


Did you remember what we mentioned about the "in" and "out" banjo bolts for the fuel supply and return? If these are reversed, inability to increase engine speed above idle and excessive smoke are the typical effects, so check this again carefully.
How recent is your fuel filter? Any air in the translucent fuel line from the filter to the IP inlet when the motor is running?


Because of the above suggestions, In and out banjo bolts were double checked and fuel filter was replaced because we recently purchased this wagon and don't know when it was last replaced.


This engine will not run well if it is not timed correctly. To time it correctly requires the proper (specialty) tools, and following the correct method in the correct order. NO CHEATING! Unless you are lucky.

So let's approach this like a science problem, take a step at a time, observe, note the results, and report back.


So this is where we are now; the proper tools, the greenbook "how-to", all amped and ready to go!!! but....the short shaft of the dial?

[ngoma]

I spoke to the diesel guy. He told me that he didn't get as far as timing the pump. It was running but it was running really rough. There WAS NO THROTTLE CONTROL. Because of that he didn't go much further into timing it.
OK, so we can't expect meaningful results until the IP is correctly static timed. But RE: No throttle control: Is is possible the throttle arm had been removed and replaced in a different position on its splined shaft? (But don't worry too much about this now. We may come back to this later).

So I've purchased the above from ebay... but it seems that the shaft is too short?? Seriously could be operator error, lol, but we can't seem to figure it out. I swear we aren't nitwits, I promise. I've printed the greenbook section on timing from k-jet.org and the dial in the pictures appears to have a much longer shaft. How long is yours?? (lol, this is kinda a funny conversation).
Why I hardly even know you!:D
Seriously speaking, that short extender is the version easily (inexpensively) available nowadays. But IT WILL WORK! Just requires temporarily removing the vacuum pump that now blocks access.

HELPFUL NOTES for removing vacuum pump:
1. Loosen lower nut first, to avoid spring pressure from breaking the lower boss.
2. The actuating rod might want to slide out of the head and clatter on the floor. Try not to let it. When removing the actuating rod, mark or otherwise note its orientation-- it has to go back the same way-- same side pointing in towards the engine; that side is wear-matched to the camshaft it rides on.
3. Don't lose the large slim o-ring seal and if necessary hold it in place (groove in cover) for reassembly with a few dabs of grease or vaseline.

Just spoke to the shop from where I purchased. It was pulled out of a running vehicle about 18-20 months ago (because vehicle was being converted to WVO). It sat for about a year. The shop picked it up, cleaned it with "diesel clean" (??), sat for 6 months, at which time I purchased it. Upon installation, the pump was primed until fuel was flowing through the lines.
Hmmm... Wonder why they would replace a working IP prior to WVO conversion.

Because of the above suggestions, In and out banjo bolts were double checked and fuel filter was replaced because we recently purchased this wagon and don't know when it was last replaced.
Good work!

So this is where we are now; the proper tools, the greenbook "how-to", all amped and ready to go!!! but....the short shaft of the dial?
Great, now you're on the right track! Dial gauge shorty adapter will work just as well, just requires temp. removing the vac pump for access (see above), adds 20-30 minutes overall max.

Greenbook method is good, but can be a little confusing. Here are helpful notes above & beyond, field tested (specifically post #16 in this thread):
http://www.d24t.com/showthread.php?t=930&page=2
Print that out and take it to your mechanics as well.

[v8volvo]

To add a couple more things onto the good info ngoma provided above:

I spoke to the diesel guy. He told me that he didn't get as far as timing the pump. It was running but it was running really rough. There WAS NO THROTTLE CONTROL. Because of that he didn't go much further into timing it.

If it was running very poorly, then the fact that there was apparently no throttle control might not be the injection pump's fault. If the timing is very far off and the engine's compression is quite healthy, then it's conceivable that the engine could run (extremely poorly and with colossal amounts of smoke) on residual fuel injected at the wrong time, and in such scenarios there's limited ability for changing injected quantity to change engine speed. In other words, you might get the impression that the pump's throttle control was faulty when in reality all the symptoms, including the apparent inability to control engine speed, are on account of incorrect timing. The fact that the mechanic attempted to even start the engine without first confirming timing indicates that his approach was wrong.

Note: before **ANY!!!!!** conclusions are ever to be made about the fundamental condition of an engine or injection pump, in the context of a D24 or other similar motor, camshaft and injection timing ABSOLUTELY **MUST!!!** be confirmed to be correct by OBJECTIVE means (i.e. by the use of tools -- NOT by visual alignment of timing marks or by "timing by ear"). This applies to pump-injected diesel engines as a very basic rule.

If someone's telling you that they are condemning the pump on the grounds that the engine ran so badly BEFORE they set the timing that they decided it wasn't worth bothering to even go through the timing procedure.......... then that raises a lot of suspicion about their thought process and their qualification to correctly do the work. :o

So I've purchased the above from ebay... but it seems that the shaft is too short??

The tool you got is technically intended for a 4-cylinder VW pump but it will work just fine here. 5-cylinder Audi and 6-cylinder Volvo versions of this motor do use an indicator holder with a longer tube and rod, as you see from the greenbook's pictures. However, as ngoma said, carefully removing the vacuum pump from the Volvo engine will make room for the (much cheaper and more available) VW version of the tool to be used with no trouble -- and in your case, given the work that has been done so far, you will need to remove the vacuum pump anyway to verify that you're timing the pump to #1 compression TDC on the cam, rather than 180 degrees out. This is done by pulling the vacuum pump off (carefully observing ngoma's note about loosening its nuts very slowly and evenly so as to avoid breakage of the mounting ears) and, with the crankshaft TDC mark aligned in the bellhousing, checking whether the pushrod that drives the vacuum pump is at maximum extension out of the head, or at its minimum position. Minimum position indicates you're at #1 TDC compression (what you want), while maximum extension means #1 TDC exhaust (180 degrees off).

Normally this isn't a step you have to take when changing an injection pump, but since there are some possible questions now about whether the cam and pump are phased correctly, it should be done. So, in short, you can remove the vacuum pump and then you'll be able to do this and also get the tool into the IP without interference.

Just spoke to the shop from where I purchased. It was pulled out of a running vehicle about 18-20 months ago (because vehicle was being converted to WVO). It sat for about a year. The shop picked it up, cleaned it with "diesel clean" (??), sat for 6 months, at which time I purchased it. Upon installation, the pump was primed until fuel was flowing through the lines.

As ngoma said, this is a strange reason to claim for replacing an injection pump. If you get your engine successfully timed, to 110% certainty, and it still doesn't run correctly, then there may be some questions that need to be asked of the people that sold the pump to you to fill in the background of this story a little better. Normally, an injection pump is only ever removed from an engine either because a) the pump has something wrong with it and needs work, or b) the engine that the pump was bolted to has expired and the good-running pump is being removed for spares. It is exceedingly uncommon to remove a problem-free pump from a problem-free engine for some kind of preemptive reason, including preparation for WVO.

However, right now the first priority, before questioning the pump itself any further, is to make sure it has been installed properly with correct timing. Until that's done, you unfortunately won't be in a position to back up any claims about whether or not the pump is in as-described condition if/when you go back to the shop that sold it to you with complaints about the way it works.

So this is where we are now; the proper tools, the greenbook "how-to", all amped and ready to go!!!

:) OK, you now have the right stuff, and have already made a lot of diagnostic progress -- you're more than halfway to having the answers you need!

Here's a deal I'll offer: If you come all the way to having timed the engine exactly perfectly and you determine, beyond all possible doubt, that the problem here is due to pump malfunction and NOT due to incorrect installation, then I have a known good running spare D24 pump that I will be happy to provide for a very low price. However, we have to first do the work to prove 100% that the pump is what's causing the problem! There's a lot of good info here in this thread now, so keep us posted on your next progress and we'll see where we end up. :cool:

[CapnSass]

Sooooooooooooo......

The mechanic has been great! He's very willing to utilize this forum, your guys' advice, the links provided, and print outs of the green books. Before he got back under the hood, he spent time reading and getting to know the quirkiness of this engine and the timing details. With all advice followed and thorough troubleshooting, the car still is not running properly. He's absolutely certain the IP is installed and timed correctly. But there still is no trottle control. Does this mean the pump is indeed a junker?? Or could there be another detail not yet addressed because we've been so focused on the timing??

Thanks again for all your help. Please let me know if there are further questions.

Laura

[745 TurboGreasel]

I didn't speak directly to the diesel mechanic friend but what I overheard & understood was that he the same problems with the throttle control, or lack of. The pump doesn't respond to the order for more or less fuel.

This was a little steep & I had just found the listing for the "working" pump in Washington ($500) which came with glow plugs, injectors, and fuel lines. I went this route to save a buck (which now really isn't going to).


^is this the pump installed now?

How long did it sit unused?

Is there air int he return line
1 running
2 after parking a bit

does it start right up and idle?

does it run the same when running from an alternative fuel supply?

Idling ahead in gear, is the RPM steady?

Usually no throttle response is the throttle shaft on the wrong spline, but that can only happen if the pump is tampered with.

[CapnSass]

^is this the pump installed now?

How long did it sit unused?

Is there air int he return line
1 running
2 after parking a bit

does it start right up and idle?

does it run the same when running from an alternative fuel supply?

Idling ahead in gear, is the RPM steady?

Usually no throttle response is the throttle shaft on the wrong spline, but that can only happen if the pump is tampered with.


It's the $500 pump purchased from Washington that is on the car now. I believe it sat unused for about 18 months. It was cleaned and shelved until sold.

I'll take these great(!!!) questions to the mechanic, who's shop is closed for the weekend. Will return with full report early next week. Thank you!

[745 TurboGreasel]

It was cleaned and shelved until sold.

Pretty good chance the throttle arm is on the wrong spline if they did any cleaning inside. if so its an easy fix.

[CapnSass]

Pretty good chance the throttle arm is on the wrong spline if they did any cleaning inside. if so its an easy fix.

I don't know if they did any internal cleaning to the pump. The employee said it was cleaned with 'diesel clean' & shelved. What is diesel clean? Is it something used to clean the inside? Like you'd have to take it apart? There was no mention of the pump being resealed or rebuilt (it was being sold as 'removed from running vehicle). I would think that if you cleaned the inside you would at least reseal it & that would be a selling point. ??? This leads me to believe that it was never messed with internally.

Would there be any other reason for no throttle control?

Ill get with the mechanic today to get the above questions answered.

Also, if the pump does turn out to be a junker, do I have any grounds to ask for my money back from the shop? How are these situations normally handled? It was being sold as a pump that came off a running vehicle. If I can get my vehicle to run with it, indicating something wrong with pump, can I return it? Or it is a buyer beware, I'm screwed sorta situation?

Thanks guys. :)