Need help with replacing a HG.

[77volvo245]

I not 100% sure if I have a blown head gasket but every time I drive my diesel the temp stays way above normal and I can't stand it. The only problem I have is that I don't know how to do the IP timing. I watched someone do a replacement pump on my car once before but not sure I can do it myself.
I have a spare D24 head that needs to have a machine shop to look over. I'll use the spare head and I'll leave the current head on the motor until the head comes back from the shop. If anyone already has a good head I could use and save me some time and money that would be great.
I do have some special tools that would make the job easier. I've also notice another problem with my diesel it's making a very strange noise. This does not happen all the time but I hear this loud whistling coming form the motor.
So if anyone that lives in the PNW that can help me that would be great. I have a very large shop so we would be out of the rain.
I would like to get this done as soon as possible.

My car is a 1984.5 264 with a D24 N/A

Thanks Taylor

[IceV_760]

Okay.. Long story short (shortcutting the IP timing)

Second. Sorry my really worst english, i dont know many mechanical terms
on english, so i had to improve my own words,
but im sure you will figure out what i mean when you think it.
Those words should all be placed between "xxxx" marks.

Basically thats the story.
Distributor belt change: You add "nose-axle" so at
both beaks on cylinder nr.1 points up, so at ventils are free.
Then you search the "zero-mark" from flywheel on back of the engine,
add belt and thats it. You can use 3mm thick piece of something straight,
in back of the "nose-axle" to verify at your "nose-axle" is on position.
There your piece of something will point to west and east, so its crosswise.

Then IP timing. Thats interesting.
Basically, when you check from greenbooks, you first comments
would probably be " what a fuck that takes ages and is hard to do",
and thats why we do it easy way, taking hmm.. 10min.

There, be extremely precise at band wheel from IP
dont spin, since it does it REALLY easy when you remove the old
IP's belt. If that happens, there is line stanssed in IP's band wheel,
which must be in line with body of pump, at 90* angle,
if we imagine at zero-point points up

You disable the effect from cold-start device by turning that square so at it frees wire which comes from "cold-start patron", so at it dont affect to timing.
Now you open the screw in front of the bump, the one where you will
set the timing, by using either "cast-clock" or "push-gauge",
and put your "measuring device" in head of the piston there.

There just put the IP's driving belt to wheels, dont matter yet at in what point.

Then you loose the tightening from "nose-axles" band wheel (from back)
and start to spin IP's band wheel counter-clockwise so long
as the reading in your "measuring device" goes higher.
When you notice it dont go higher anymore, stop there.
Now you will a) reset the reading from "cast-clock", or b)
put the reading on your "push-gauge" to your mind.

Then, now you start to spin IP's band wheel clockwise,
so long at a) reading from your "cast-clock" is 0,9-1,0 ,
or b) 0,9-1 is added to your former reading, be accurate there.

Now you will just simply tigthen the bolt from "nose-axles" back so the band wheel on nose axle, which uses IP's bandwheel via belt,
so at that band.wheel is locked to "nose-axle" and dont move. Eh i mean so at wheel dont spin freely on "nose-axle" anymore


Now it will be timed, if you did everything as told above,
and saved alot time compared to timing-system from greenbook.

Hope you understandet that, may not be so easy thanks my worst english.

EDITED: Added when you will put Ip's Belt on, its highlighted so you see that spot easy if readed before and were thinknig at when i add it.

[jbg]

IceV_760, as usual, thank you for the post! You spend a lot of time and effort on the board, and your knowledge is a great benefit to all readers.

Okay.. Long story short (shortcutting the IP timing)

Second. Sorry my really worst english, i dont know many mechanical terms
on english, so i had to improve my own words,
but im sure you will figure out what i mean when you think it.
Those words should all be placed between "xxxx" marks.


Ok, I'll do my best to help with the translation. :D

Distributor belt change: You add "nose-axle" so at
both beaks on cylinder nr.1 points up, so at ventils are free.
Then you search the "zero-mark" from flywheel on back of the engine,
add belt and thats it. You can use 3mm thick piece of something straight,
in back of the "nose-axle" to verify at your "nose-axle" is on position.
There your piece of something will point to west and east, so its crosswise.


Most special tools can be viewed here: http://www.k-jet.org/articles/information/diesel-frequently-asked-questions/#8

Taylor, the general idea here is that there are two systems to time; 1) the camshaft to the crankshaft, and 2) the injection pump to the engine.

With the valve cover removed, rotate the engine clockwise until number 1 cylinder camshaft lobes ("nose-axle breaks") are pointing up. As IceV_760 notes this will ensure the valves ("ventils") are free. On the back of the camshaft is a machined relief that you insert special tool #5190 - or something similar ("3mm thick piece of something straight") - into, and a 0,2mm feeler gauge. To expose this relief you need to remove the rear camshaft timing gear. Once these steps are completed the camshaft is set.

Special tool #5190: http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/2157/1425/200/tool.jpg.

As IceV_760 notes you set the crankshaft by rotating the crank (27mm or 1 1/16" socket on crank bolt) until the zero degree mark is shown on the flywheel. Once this step is completed the crankshaft is set. With cylinder 1 at TDC, add the front timing belt.


Then IP timing. Thats interesting. Basically, when you check from greenbooks, you first comments would probably be " what a fuck that takes ages and is hard to do", and thats why we do it easy way, taking hmm.. 10min.


I could not have said this better myself. When you read the procedure its tougher than it really is. :cool:


There, be extremely precise at band wheel from IP
dont spin, since it does it REALLY easy when you remove the old
IP's belt. If that happens, there is line stanssed in IP's band wheel,
which must be in line with body of pump, at 90* angle,
if we imagine at zero-point points up


IceV_760 is right to put the above text in bold. Any movement of the injection pump gear ("band wheel") moves the pump timing. Just the slightest bump can really whack things out. If is does get whacked out, the injection pump gear has a small notch cut ("stanssed") in it. Line this up with the scribe mark on the injection pump. For a visual see section C3 of http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/2157/1425/1600/p2.jpg.


You disable the effect from cold-start device by turning that square so at it frees wire which comes from "cold-start patron", so at it dont affect to timing.


Right, the CSD must be disabled. See this scan from the green book to give you a visual on the cold start device. "Cold-start patron" is the cold start device (CSD), or a wax-filled thermostat. See section C2 of http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/2157/1425/1600/p2.jpg.


Now you open the screw in front of the bump, the one where you will
set the timing, by using either "cast-clock" or "push-gauge",
and put your "measuring device" in head of the piston there.


Ok, what IceV_760 is saying here is to remove the center bolt on the injection pump's head, and insert a dial indicator ("cast-clock" or "push-gauge"), set the gauge to 2,0mm pre-load. This is illustrated in section C4 of http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/2157/1425/1600/p2.jpg.

Now this is a very important. There are two schools of thought on how to actually set the injection pump timing. The Volvo green book refers to a method where the pump mounting bolts are slacked, and the pump physically rotated clockwise or counter-clockwise to advance or retard pump timing. Do not do this! :mad: :eek: :( This will weaken the individual injector fuel supply pipes, not good. Follow IceV_760's - and many others, including Tom Bryant - advice below:


Then you loose the tightening from "nose-axles" band wheel (from back)
and start to spin IP's band wheel counter-clockwise so long
as the reading in your "measuring device" goes higher.
When you notice it dont go higher anymore, stop there.
Now you will a) reset the reading from "cast-clock", or b)
put the reading on your "push-gauge" to your mind.


Assuming the rear camshaft belt ("band") and gear ("band wheel") are still removed, mount the gear and place the belt. However do not tighten the camshaft bolt, leave it loose. When you rotate the injection pump the camshaft should not rotate or timing will be incorrect. Ensure the marks line up as seen in section C3 of http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/2157/1425/1600/p2.jpg. Rotate the injection pump gear counter-clockwise and observe the dial indicator. Keep rotating the pump until the needle no longer moves, this is your minimum value. Set the dial indicator to zero.


Then, now you start to spin IP's band wheel clockwise,
so long at a) reading from your "cast-clock" is 0,9-1,0 ,
or b) 0,9-1 is added to your former reading, be accurate there.


Again, ensuring the camshaft is not rotating, rotate the injection pump gear clockwise and observe the dial indicator. As the needle moves this is the actual injection timing advance. From the green book:

D24 (exc. USA/Canada) : 0.90mm
D24 USA/Canada 82-83 : 0.80mm
D24 USA Federal/Canada 84-? : 0.85mm
USA Calf. 1984-? : 0.75mm

See this thread for some advice: http://www.d24t.com/showthread.php?t=51

Once you reach the desired advance, tighten the rear camshaft gear bolt to 70 foot pounds.


Now it will be timed, if you did everything as told above,
and saved alot time compared to timing-system from greenbook.

Hope you understandet that, may not be so easy thanks my worst english.

Yes, congratulations on setting your timing! This is a difficult procedure, but once you understand it, and perform it a few times its not that bad. Please be aware that there are several special tools you need for this job. For me, I needed tools #5199 and #5201.

Thanks IceV_760, your instructions were spot on, I just changed a few things here and there to help with the reading. Your English is not bad at all! A few words get lost in translation but its nothing that we cannot figure out. :) Keep up the good work.

[IceV_760]

Hmm well i think you would writed whole thing from scratch
faster than translating my porridge.

Anyways, i learned nice, new mechanical terms from you, thanks.

Secondly, i added the point where you add Ip's belt,
and edited a little, forgot it totally, belt i mean.

[v8volvo]

Excellent info.

Don't forget that if it is an early D24 head you may need to have machine work done to it in order for it to be compatible with your later bottom end. The headbolt holes will likely need to be reamed out to the later 12mm size.

Before getting too far into this, though, you may want to do more diagnostics on the motor to be sure it is a headgasket. Try getting an infrared thermometer and testing all around the engine. Your gauge may be wrong, or your thermostat may be malfunctioning. Aim the thermometer at the thermostat housing to be sure it is running at the correct temp the t-stat is rated for. If the temp at the lower rad hose outlet (at the thermostat housing) is significantly lower than the temps in the bypass circuit (test at the outlet from the t-stat housing that faces towards the rear of the car, going towards the heater hoses/fuel filter area), then suspect a bad thermostat. Those hoses coming from the side of the t-stat housing should run at about 190F/90C if the t-stat is working right.

If all temps on the engine look normal, then your gauge may be faulty. Not an uncommon thing on 240s.

A good infrared thermometer is a great tool to have, a good investment and a lot cheaper and easier than tearing into a HG job that might not be necessary. Do the diagnostic homework before you plunge into the big job -- you will be glad you did.

How is your heater output?

[v8volvo]

FYI I have had two turbodiesels with blown headgaskets and neither of them overheated unless I really pushed it. If the HG is blown it will heat up under load, but should not go crazy when you are just cruising on the highway or around town. If your temp problems are occurring under different conditions, something else is possibly going on and it's worth your time to figure out what it is.

[jbg]

Excellent info.

Don't forget that if it is an early D24 head you may need to have machine work done to it in order for it to be compatible with your later bottom end. The headbolt holes will likely need to be reamed out to the later 12mm size.

Before getting too far into this, though, you may want to do more diagnostics on the motor to be sure it is a headgasket.

This is very true. Taylor, you might want to check the current injection pump timing too. If the timing is retarded, or just very off, it can cause higher than normal engine temperature.

v8volvo: Is the change in head bolt the only modification needed to use an early head on a later block?

[v8volvo]

This is very true. Taylor, you might want to check the current injection pump timing too. If the timing is retarded, or just very off, it can cause higher than normal engine temperature.

v8volvo: Is the change in head bolt the only modification needed to use an early head on a later block?

So I believe, but haven't tried it and don't plan to so I cannot say for sure. I don't know of any differences other than the headbolt size and, ostensibly, the capacity of the prechambers which are supposed to be 2 cc larger on the very early cylinder heads.

Timing would have to be pretty dang far off to affect engine temp in a consistent way like this. I can see it contributing to a hot running condition if the symptoms only showed up at high revs and/or high load and/or high ambient temp, but it should not make it run warm when just loafing around town or idling on a cool day, as this car apparently does. I suspect there may be a cooling system component that is out of order -- thermostat, air bubble, rad, etc.

[cuaz64]

You can find the complete repair manual for the D24 in k-jet.org. Also, in the D24 mailing list exist a messenge about how to put an earlier "pre-81" head in a newer block. Good luck with the repair. Don't forget post up the results.

[Slobodan]

Taylor You know I am able to help/do that work! You will need to buy new head bolts!!! that is a must.

Maybe add turbo???? If you add oil cooler it could work for 5 years or more depending on how hard you run it? I've got the Turbo and manifold at my parents house.

[77volvo245]

Kevin, you already know I'll be getting Jonny's wrecked 760 Turbodiesel so I don't want to do a +T to my N/A.
I just did a compression test on my D24 the other day. Number three cylinder was at 350 psi and the others were at a soild 400 psi. Im burring a lot of oil and seeing a lot of blue smoke when driving. When running B99 (biodiesel) the exhaust smells more like burring motor oil.

[v8volvo]

Those compression numbers are pretty solid actually, but that doesn't tell you much about the condition of the oil rings. I had a Rabbit diesel with good compression but bad oil control rings that burned oil like crazy and smoked blue but ran great. Sounds like you have a similar situation.

Good thing you are moving to a TD. That is the way to go. ;)

What are you going to do with the 240?

[77volvo245]

I really like my D24 N/A. I never drove a D24T so that might change. A lot people think D24s are slow but there really fun to drive.

Not sure what I want to do at the moment. I thinking of putting the D24T in a nice 1986+ 245. Or I will put it in my 84.5 264 diesel that has the D24 N/A already. I'm really overwhelmed in projects right now, I really want to start my B21FT project that will be going in the 77 wagon.


Here is a 245 with a D24T that was for sale a while back not sure if it sold already. This is the look I'm going for.:D

http://i194.photobucket.com/albums/z229/77volvo245/1985%20Diesel/IPDgaragesale2008pic17.jpg

[IceV_760]

I know what you do. Since your 264 is d24 N/A, your going to turbo+ic it.

[EvoStevo]

Here is a 245 with a D24T that was for sale a while back not sure if it sold already. This is the look I'm going for.:D

http://i194.photobucket.com/albums/z229/77volvo245/1985%20Diesel/IPDgaragesale2008pic17.jpg

Any more info on this car? Looks really clean.

[77volvo245]

Any more info on this car? Looks really clean.

This car was at the IPD garage sale two years ago in Portland Oregon. A year later the guy that had it on CL for 4K maybe more not 100% sure. He says it's imported from Germany, from the E-codes headlights and turn signals it might be. There are a few youtube videos of this thing the guy made.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h3RcVXnNgmA

[v8volvo]

That white wagon is now up near me, in Bothell WA. I am supposed to be timing the injection pump for the guy who owns it sometime soon. It is a 1984 German-import car, which is why it has the later-style front end that we didn't get until 1986 in the US. Also why it has headlight wipers, side blinkers in the fenders, leveling shocks in the rear end, etc. The guy got it as a TD. I will be interested to see what it looks like in person when I do the work on it.

[IceV_760]

Interesting, i believe at 240 wasnt sold as d24t never on europe..
Atleast not in finland. So, when you get more knowledge,
please tell.

[jbg]

I will be interested to see what it looks like in person when I do the work on it.

I think I speak for everyone on the site when I say "Please, take some pictures of it"! :cool:

[Volvoist]

It is in my experience that the temerature sensors fail, and it seems that every 1984 D24 I have owned or serviced had this issue. I think they must've gotten a bad batch for a period of time or something. The guage would be very sensitive and would run close to the top of the gauge. You can try swapping the gauge sender with the glow plug sender in the back of the head and see if it helps. It may simply be the sending unit. I would try that first if it were me given my past experience. Its worth a try anyhow!

[mihkel]

I thought I'd ask it here as it goes with the thread.
What's the name and size of the tool you need for unscrewing the headbolts? Have no clue at all and don't want to try different ones by buying them. Volvo original tool part number for this seems to be 1159082 but this led me nowhere.
PS, it's a D24T '86

[77volvo245]

I never gotten to do the headgasket. At the piont I stop driving the car I was going though alot of coolent. This did not bother me to bad because now I've started my D24T project to my 240. Should be a lot of fun when I finish it.

[bjs2oo7]

Mihkel: I got mine at Napa but this seems to be the same tool
http://www.germansupply.com/xcart/customer/product.php?productid=17420

[mihkel]

Thanks bjs2oo7! Worked like a charm.