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raw
05-18-2013, 04:01 PM
hi, i'm new on here but been a member on volvoforums.org.uk for a while. i'm from England and currently 18, my first car is an '89 740 that we bought back in '06 and have been running ever since. i've been maintaining it and learning about it ever since, and driving it since i passed my driving test last year and it's just passed 232000 miles. originally it's a B200E N/A 8 valve petrol 740 GL so pretty pathetic.

here's my thread on volvoforums.org.uk for anyone interested: http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=99391

plans have always been to put a more interesting engine in when i could afford to, originally it was always probably going to be a B230FT from a 940, but in the last year or so (mainly thanks to Steve with his 960 converted to D24 power), i've been more and more keen on the D24, and eventually decided this was the way i was going to go, but not until i could afford the insurance and had some money for the swap.

as we all know, the best laid plans always go wrong, and on tuesday morning i was pulling off the motorway on my way to university (i'm an aeronautical engineering student), when the temperature skyrocketed and when i managed to pull over i found all my coolant was everywhere but in the engine. first time the car has actually broken down in the 6 years we've had it, but before long (before it had cooled down) i'd decided that the tired, knocking B200 had driven it's last mile, and was on the lookout for a D24TIC :)

a few months back i had been talking to a guy off the VOC who had advertised a 940 D24 on the forums for sale, and had said that i'd be interested in buying his car maybe, if he could wait till the end of the summer, but i thought that the uncertainty in my emails, and the fact that it would involve a lot of waiting had put him off, and even thought maybe he had sold the car. after trying every volvo specific breaker in england, and drawing a blank, i finally decided to give him a try just in case, and ten minutes later we'd exchanged 5 emails and settled on £350 as a price. if only i'd tried that first! the donor car is a '95 940 which seems to be pretty much tsorlanda spec and has no MOT thanks to rusted sills, however it has a good, well maintained D24TIC and an M90 gearbox (albeit with no synchro on first). still, for that price and given i cant find another i'm not complaining!

here's the for sale thread when the car was first advertised: http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=172893

so, plan is to swap the engine and drivetrain from the 940 to my 740, along with any other bits that i might need. hopefully this will be fairly soon as i'm getting annoyed with having no car again after just a week! i'll also be nicking a few other bits from the 940 if they're better than mine.

future plans i'm looking at an electric fan conversion, MBC and boost gauge, more fuel and boost (within reason for now), but first i'll be doing a timing belt and all that to basically go stage 0 first. having just finished rebuilding the D5252T (AEL) in mom's V70 i don't want to have another cam belt failure of a Volkswagen diesel to deal with!

that's pretty much it for now, i'll have to get some pics up sometime, but they'll probably be the swap in progress and then the car afterwards rather than any of my stuff from before as i cba to post all the stuff that's in my project thread off VOC again.

hope you all like my plans, if anyone has any advice then please, please give it to me as i need all the help i can get i think!

Richard

v8volvo
05-19-2013, 07:19 AM
Sounds like fun! A handful of us on here have done the gas-diesel swap. It is definitely easiest to do when you have a complete donor vehicle and the space to keep both cars around until the completed swap car is on the road with all the bugs worked out. You will be surprised how many little bits are needed off the diesel to make it all work smoothly! If you're familiar with the innards of the AEL TDI motor you'll have no trouble getting used to working on the D24TIC, they are closely similar in their construction.

The swap is fairly straightforward but it does take quite a bit of time. If this is your only vehicle, you should be prepared to be without it for a while! You can see how I did one here last year: http://www.d24t.com/showthread.php?t=715

My only hints (which I mentioned in that thread) would be to use as many of the original diesel chassis/electrical/fuel system parts as possible to make things fit together. The result is always cleaner, simpler, and easier if you use the bits that are already made for the job instead of trying to re-engineer the whole thing with a welder and a hacksaw. I've worked on a couple of converted wagons (one 740 and two 960's) that were originally built by a guy who decided he couldn't be bothered to take anything except the engine and trans off the donor car, and equally couldn't be bothered to read the wiring diagrams and figure out how to most easily mate the diesel engine wiring with the gasser body. Those cars were a mess -- poorly fitting engines with home-made mounts, lots of wiring snaking everywhere under the hood, vibration problems from the drivetrain mounting geometry being off-kilter, sloppy welding everywhere, etc. Those cars also had constant electrical issues needing fixed. If the original components are used, the end result can be the car looks and works just like a stock diesel Volvo under the hood -- in fact, if you really do it carefully, it should be impossible for an onlooker to tell that it was ever anything other than an original diesel car! Moreover it saves time and hassle for you, both in assembling it and making it reliable afterwards.

All that said -- it's even easier still to buy an original Diesel in good shape and make it nice. There's a forum member selling one here in the UK in pretty good shape for £300: http://www.d24t.com/showthread.php?t=1053 Just one alternative, especially if you need to have a running vehicle in the meantime...

Welcome to the forum -- keep us posted on how it goes and don't forget to post pictures!

raw
05-19-2013, 09:27 AM
well, i had actually read your thread before i started mine :)

cheers for all the advice, and the plan is for it to be as though it was always a diesel, i'm a bit of a perfectionist and quite OCD with these things so i'm sure it should be ok. theres no real rush, as i've only actually been driving the car for about a month or so (until then i'd only been insured on and off when i was home from uni) so i'm not really used to having a car on the road. besides, at the moment it barely runs, never mind drives so i have as much time as it takes to get it right, only issue is that i have exams at uni in a week or so and i probably ought to be revising instead!

yes i could just go and buy a D24 car and make it nice, but F69's been with us for 6 years now, and i've got no intentions of getting rid of it, just planning on making it mine. probably not cost effective or practical, but then again you're talking to someone who just rebuilt the top end of a V70 which cost £700 in the end, and the car was only worth at best £1000, so practical isnt what we do really!

more soon

Richard

raw
05-21-2013, 01:02 AM
my parts car arrives in less than an hour :D :D :D, will get some pics up when it's here :)

Richard

raw
05-21-2013, 12:17 PM
http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy26/wally111111/N225%20FAH/file_zps5e623180.jpg (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/wally111111/media/N225%20FAH/file_zps5e623180.jpg.html)

it's here :D took it for a quick spin to check it was ok, seems to run nice and goes well on boost, feels a bit quicker than the B200 but it might take some time to start driving it normally as opposed to enjoying the feeling of that turbo coming in! anyway, last quick spin will be around to the yard where i'm doing the swap later i should think :)

heres the car:

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy26/wally111111/N225%20FAH/file_zpsd30dcb83.jpg (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/wally111111/media/N225%20FAH/file_zpsd30dcb83.jpg.html)

bit scruffy in places:

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy26/wally111111/N225%20FAH/file_zpsa5194c7c.jpg (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/wally111111/media/N225%20FAH/file_zpsa5194c7c.jpg.html)

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy26/wally111111/N225%20FAH/file_zps0ab29025.jpg (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/wally111111/media/N225%20FAH/file_zps0ab29025.jpg.html)

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy26/wally111111/N225%20FAH/file_zpsf4959d85.jpg (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/wally111111/media/N225%20FAH/file_zpsf4959d85.jpg.html)

think this is where the main MOT issue was:

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy26/wally111111/N225%20FAH/file_zps9fbad8a7.jpg (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/wally111111/media/N225%20FAH/file_zps9fbad8a7.jpg.html)

bit of exhaust missing:

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy26/wally111111/N225%20FAH/file_zps7df6189e.jpg (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/wally111111/media/N225%20FAH/file_zps7df6189e.jpg.html)

hmm, spartan comes to mind, literally seems to be tsorlanda spec, doesn't even have heated mirrors:

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy26/wally111111/N225%20FAH/file_zps93178ab0.jpg (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/wally111111/media/N225%20FAH/file_zps93178ab0.jpg.html)

M90 goodness

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy26/wally111111/N225%20FAH/file_zpse239ef7f.jpg (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/wally111111/media/N225%20FAH/file_zpse239ef7f.jpg.html)

comparisons time:

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy26/wally111111/N225%20FAH/file_zps410e931a.jpg (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/wally111111/media/N225%20FAH/file_zps410e931a.jpg.html)

methinks someone had a boost gauge!

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy26/wally111111/N225%20FAH/file_zps730ddac2.jpg (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/wally111111/media/N225%20FAH/file_zps730ddac2.jpg.html)

tinkering time began...

it's going to be a right pita as the 940 wiring is quite different form the 740 i assume :| the issue is that although the main loom should be near identical, the washer bottle is on the opposite side of the car, meaning i'll need to use the loom for that from the 940, the battery cables are on opposite sides, so they'll need swapping over, and the engine loom is obviously completely different so i'll need to attach that, along with the glow plug and egr control wiring to my loom, however as the 940 has post face-lift front lights, i'll need to retain the original wiring for my lights. most of the engine bay looms plug into sockets at the bottoms of the a pillars i believe in both cars, so hopefully i'll be able to swap them over and then just sort the bits inside.

progress this afternoon. stripped out the front end of the 940, coolant out, rad and intercooler off, lights out, wiring back as far as i can get it. next is to free the last two wires that go under the engine to the starter, and then that should be the engine free to be lowered out on the crossmember. i'm planning on swapping everything as simply as possible jut to get the D24 into my car as soon as possible, and then get it back to mine to finish the wiring properly on the drive, as the farmer who's barn i'm working in is waiting for a request to ship 300 tonnes of grain that's in the barn behind my cars!

not much particularly interesting from this afternoon, just more and more wires becoming disconjoined form the car

wires everywhere, and this is just the o/s loom!

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy26/wally111111/N225%20FAH/file_zps968e8d62.jpg (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/wally111111/media/N225%20FAH/file_zps968e8d62.jpg.html)

how it is now, all ready to come out apart from three jobs left i think

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy26/wally111111/N225%20FAH/file_zps5f615b95.jpg (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/wally111111/media/N225%20FAH/file_zps5f615b95.jpg.html)

then having come home i decided to have a look at the clocks and see if i could sort the rev counter out, side by side you think 940 and 740 clocks are similar just arranged different?

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy26/wally111111/N225%20FAH/file_zpsf5223cd4.jpg (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/wally111111/media/N225%20FAH/file_zpsf5223cd4.jpg.html)

you'd be wrong unfortunately they're completely different, to the point where the 940 revcounter is about 3mm diameter smaller than the hole in the 740, and that's before you even look at the electrics or the mounting

difference between the rev counters:

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy26/wally111111/N225%20FAH/file_zps9f4381d7.jpg (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/wally111111/media/N225%20FAH/file_zps9f4381d7.jpg.html)

suppose there's now two options, one, wire up so it hopefully runs the petrol rev counter accurately (cant see why it wouldn't) and look out for a set of preface-lift diesel clocks, or two, swap the dash over and use the 940 ones, or am i now being ridiculous?


Richard

raw
05-22-2013, 04:12 PM
WARNING: those opposed to volvo abuse of any kind my wish to avoid looking carefully at the backgrounds of some images in this thread.

motivation is high at the moment :) put in a 12 hour day working from 9 this morning (was at the yard at half 8 but the keys didn't arrive until later)!

so, progress today, i'll let the pictures do the taking.

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy26/wally111111/N225%20FAH/engine%20transplant/file_zpsba801593.jpg (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/wally111111/media/N225%20FAH/engine%20transplant/file_zpsba801593.jpg.html)

convenient having a manitou on hand :D we found another use for it, but the video didn't work.

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy26/wally111111/N225%20FAH/engine%20transplant/file_zps0e2cf1d4.jpg (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/wally111111/media/N225%20FAH/engine%20transplant/file_zps0e2cf1d4.jpg.html)

old and new

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy26/wally111111/N225%20FAH/engine%20transplant/file_zps13748d9a.jpg (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/wally111111/media/N225%20FAH/engine%20transplant/file_zps13748d9a.jpg.html)

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy26/wally111111/N225%20FAH/engine%20transplant/file_zps6b8629f4.jpg (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/wally111111/media/N225%20FAH/engine%20transplant/file_zps6b8629f4.jpg.html)

so that's how we are now, all the necessary engine wiring has been separated from the 940, and is ready to be attached to the 740 loom. jobs for tomorrow are:

- acquire new front and rear brake hoses, engine oil and coolant. a proper service with cam belt, oil filter, fuel filter and air filter will be performed soon, as soon as i have the monies as i'm predictably somewhat skint at the moment! - drain 740 fuel tank
- remove diff, prop shaft and fuel tank from 940, along with at least one fuel line.
- remove diff, prop shaft and fuel tank from 740, remove fuel pump and filter,
- replace above with 940 parts
- fit 940 washer bottle, battery tray and air-box to 740
- fit glow plug relay, EGR system and engine loom to 740, run wires through to left footwell
- fit D24 to 740, connect gear linkage, struts, trailing arms, steering column, prop, lines (vacuum, fuel and clutch slave) and wires.
- transfer ARB drop links to replace worn ones off 940
- transfer rack end to replace one i ground off 940 strut :P alternatively, transfer nearly new recon rack form 740 crossmember to 940 as 940 one leaking (will need doing soon if not tomorrow).
- install rad and intercooler, connect
- fill coolant
- fit brake lines
- bleed brakes and clutch
- install battery
- bleed fuel system and start (hotwire necessary connections), remove from yard and drive (500 yards) home to complete wiring ASAP.

necessary wiring, actually a darn sight easier than expected:

- one wire from fuse 13 to glow plug relay (ignition live)
- one wire from existing starter signal to starter and glow plug relay
- oil pressure signal to existing instrument cluster light
- two wires for temperature signal to existing gauge
- alternator charge signal to existing instrument cluster light
- alternator RPM signal to existing rev counter (it's the wire on the spade connector on the back, should get it working, don't know if it'll be accurate or a factor out)
- over-boost signal to instrument cluster light, in my cluster it will appear as choke light, but that can be changed by fitting a diesel warning lights screen
- glow plugs signal to instrument cluster light, don't know where that will appear, but i'm going to wire it as per the green book so it'll be in the right place when i get the right screen.
- make a little loom up from excess wires to connect +12V from the battery to the old battery location to link to the fuse box feed. seems easier than removing the old one and running a new feed. also this loom will have the 5 wires for the washer pumps and the washer level sensor.

hmm, don't know when all this will be done, but i need to get it on wheels by the end of tomorrow as it's blocking the entrance to the barn and the farmer needs to get grain out sometime!

that's all for now :)

Richard

v8volvo
05-22-2013, 08:21 PM
Wow, you've already made a lot of progress! I used that same method to pull the drivetrains out of mine when I did the swap. Pretty efficient way of getting it done. :D

Nice looking color on your 740. Sounds like it should be a very nice setup once done. Yes the clusters are completely different from the beveled later type to the earlier rectangular units. Your best luck to get a tach and glow plug light that works in the rectangular cluster might be to get a junkyard cluster out of a diesel built before 1991 (or before 1988 if it is a 760 -- 760 got that later dash earlier than the rest of the series, the others didn't get it until '91). Could also use a Dakota Digital adapter box to make the gasser tach work -- I have used them before and they work well, but they're spendy (plus shipping from US), and then the redline is in the wrong place anyway. ;)

I have a spare tach from the earlier style cluster I could sell you that would drop into yours, but the shipping cost might be killer and you can probably find a whole diesel cluster easily enough close to you anyway in a junkyard somewhere. That way you'll get the warning light strip with the GP light in it, too. Seems to me that would be the easiest option. I wouldn't want to think about swapping the whole later dash in -- IIRC the climate control setup is different on those later cars too, would be a lot of work to get a tach installed.... :eek:

Be sure to hang onto those E-code headlight assemblies from the 940 -- those fetch good money if you want to sell them to someone in the US! Much better than the lights those came with on our side of the pond....

v8volvo
05-22-2013, 08:27 PM
BTW, that 940 does look pretty basic. A 900 series with no A/C and wind-up windows is a strange thing to see! Heated seats, though, of course.... :cool:

raw
05-23-2013, 01:24 PM
right, progress report...

today, this happened:

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy26/wally111111/F69%20TLN/engine%20swap/file_zps7eff0163.jpg (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/wally111111/media/F69%20TLN/engine%20swap/file_zps7eff0163.jpg.html)

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy26/wally111111/F69%20TLN/engine%20swap/file_zps9777639a.jpg (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/wally111111/media/F69%20TLN/engine%20swap/file_zps9777639a.jpg.html)

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy26/wally111111/F69%20TLN/engine%20swap/file_zpsbd38b9ea.jpg (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/wally111111/media/F69%20TLN/engine%20swap/file_zpsbd38b9ea.jpg.html)

before this, i sorted all the wires for the engine. used the wires from the old engine loom as, with the exception of the glow plug and over-boost warnings, who's wires are used for something to do with the ignition ECU, they're all there and used for the same thing already so this means only two wires need changing behind the dash, and they already go to the drivers footwell. convenient :)

then i realised i'd forgotten my soldering iron :| then i realised that the farmers dog had eaten my sandwiches :| then it started snowing so i didnt fancy going outside to drop the diff and fuel tank from the 940. instead the engine went in, the mounts all connected, gear linkage in and working, all engine wiring and plumbing is back in and connected, and the 940 washer bottle is in. i realised during this process that the gearbox crossmember is really very rotten, so a new one will need to be made or found in the near future. really isnt good at all! the brakes have been swapped back from the 740 crossmember, as has the rack.

the remaining updated list is:

- soldering
- swap fuel tanks, lines, exhaust, diff and prop
- replace all brake lines
- tighten rack end ball joints
- attach o/s trailing arm (was being a pain so i left it)
- re wrap loom, particularly my +12 that runs across the front (can be seen in the pictures) and ensure it's all secure and not able to wear on anything.
- sort wires for warning lights at clocks end
- remove fuel pump and ignition ECU wiring.
- bleed brakes and clutch
- test all electrics
- bleed injection system
- START!!!!!

also sold the 940 shell, and the V70 for £250 today so will have monies to buy some parts in the morning :)

thanks again for the comments. it was the forklift through the windscreen to lift it over the engine that i was expecting anger for, but yeah, all worked well!

it is a nice colour, and i really hope so! will look better with better alloys some day and shorter springs (i'm not sure what's available for the D24 cars though?), and all in one colour again would be nice!

already looking for a 740/early 760 TD dash, but for now will have to just see what the petrol rev counter comes out with :P hoping to get boost and pyro gauges in the top corners if i can find some that i can make fit too :)

yeah, i'll stick to looking in the UK, unfortunately these diesels aren't that common! thanks for the offer, also, thanks for the heads up about the 940 headlights! would probably have junked them not knowing that!

of course it has heated seats :P literally nothing else though, doesn't even have heated mirrors! no A/C is quite common over here though. i do wonder whether it actually is a tsorlanda which has had the decals removed perhaps, it's certainA/C is quite common over here though.

Richard

m-reg
07-29-2013, 02:29 PM
hi that donor car would be a 940L same as the Mreg keep fit windows and all not even got remote locking the only 940 i ever seen without it and it has to be the one i get . was that the one that was on the bay in Northampton a while back?

raw
10-27-2013, 03:30 AM
right, seems i've been VERY lazy about updating this despite poking my head in to keep up with what's going on on here now and then :|

m-reg, nope, this car came from norfolk, but it was indeed a 940L, L presumable meaning Literally nothing?

so, what's happened since my last update, going to shamelessly copy the posts from my thread on volvoforums as there are too many!

may 24th

well for starters, sorry, i've been crap at photographing today.

this morning i remembered to take my soldering iron with me got the soldering done, now have boost warning (currently choke until i get diesel clocks), glow plug warning (tracs until i get diesel clocks), working glow plugs, all functioning wiring in the engine bay in fact except no start signal to the starter for some reason, i'll work it out tomorrow!

currently the back end is in the air, axel is out, fuel tank is drained and ready to be dropped and exhaust is off, just waiting for the same bits to come off the 940 to go onto it tomorrow morning. once that's done i just need to fix that starter signal (suspect probably either my ignition switch, which has been iffy for a while, or my immobiliser maybe), bleed the injection system and the rack, fill the coolant up and get it out of the yard. i have until the end of sunday to get it moved as the farmer needs to get grain out and dried on monday. got a list of parts to nick off the 940 before it goes to scrap and a few plans for some of them aswell

all going well, so pleased with the wiring just need to wrap it all up so it looks neat. pleased with todays progress although if i had got on better this morning then i'd probably have it on the floor by now :|

May 25th (moms birthday, don't think i paid much attention to that fact though!)

more progress today, even worse on the photos though :| there are a few from this morning which i'll add sometime.

today was a really slow day, started by rebuilding my spare set of instruments with the speedo from the old set, this solved my warning lights issue and left me with the working speedo, so the dash was then resassembled. the wiring loom was wrapped (until i ran out of tape, still have probably two rolls worth to do but some is now done!). problem with starting was not fixed but i know roughly where it is now. when the earth for the glow plug relay is connected then the starter wont run, any time that earth is disconnected it turns over fine. annoying but i'm sure i'll find it so it's not a priority now.

fuel tank then came out, along with sender etc, and also the filler neck, which was a right royal PITA to get out. this was made more annoying by finding that the filer neck form my 940 is in fact identical in every way :| anyway, new filler neck fitted, then tank and fuel lines (more slow progress here, and the tanks not in right but it's in :| will fix these issues soon.

then last thing i tried this evening, about 4 oclock i started this, which was to fit the new diff, and at quarter past 8 i gave up having trying to get the prop shaft to connect. i'll go back to it tomorrow! i cant find a master spline on the prop shaft, and it's gone in far enough to turn together with the front half, but i cant get it to go in further (enough to get the diff back in). thinking about it i should probably have put the differential in first and then put the front half on after where i could use a persuasion tool if necessary, and connect it to the gearbox afterwards :| i'll try that tomorrow unless anyone has any other ideas?

the important thing is that it starts and runs under it's own power. need a set of exhaust clamps though as theres no way that the ones on there are coming off without breaking and it needs to be adjusted. i assume that the mounts are different on a 940 somehow as it's against the rear subframe on mine with the hangers 'adjusted'.

oh well. it's getting there

after spending may 26th fiddling with the prop shaft (something that came up again and again for a while) and trying to find where my volts were going in the glow plug relay

may 27th

well, it works

still some little niggles to fix:

glow plug relay problem
gearbox mount
tracking/adjust steering wheel
adjust exhaust
fix oil cooler mountings
wire washer pumps
shorten fuel tank straps
full service inc cam belt and water pump

however, on the good side, i've done 200 miles, and (depending how accurate this fuel gauge might be) i think i still have about 3/5ths of a tank left, it pulls well, (as everyone who' been in it has commented), and there've only been a few small worries :P

after fixing everything yesterday evening, i decided i'd go and fill up with diesel as the fuel gauge seemed to be playing silly buggers and i didn't want to risk it. while in town i texted a mate to tell him i'd got it working. long and the short i ended up in peterborough and didn't get home till half 4 this morning! still, was good fun and a good test run. did have a few little moments, had to bump start it and had very dim lights, along with some other odd electrical behaviour. assumed this was that the alternator was weak or something was discharging the battery while it was switched off. traced the problem this morning however, i cleaned the earth to the body! now everything works fine, apart from still having this intermittent issue with no start if the glow plugs are plugged in.

i'll trace it all down and get it fixed, just loving having a working car that's better than ever!

may 28th

ok, i checked the wiring on the glow plug relay, couldn't have connected it backwards as the wire that goes to the glow plugs doesn't reach to the other side of the relay. did however give the chassis earth a good clean with some wet and dry and suddenly the glow plugs work properly, cold start is much improved and i don't have to unplug them

this morning took the 940 and all the other bits whites so it's now gone to a better place to rust in peace, got £160 which i split with the farmer so i now have £70 towards my big servicing job that i'll be doing soon and a new thermostat that i fitted this afternoon. car now gets warm and stays there even if you're not thrashing it happy days. thermostat was a VW one marked '94 so i presume it was original, perhaps explains being a little past it, although testing it in boiling water it seemed to be ok.

before doing this i did some work on the gauges. bodged the 940 rev counter into the 740 dashboard with a few bits of wire with ring connectors on the ends of them, which i soldered to the old connections on the 740 cluster and then screwed into the 940 gauge mounts. hey presto, a functioning rev counter that proves it idles at 800RPM, not 6000 :P all ready to take me to uni tomorrow for my exams :| also swapped in the fuel and temp gauges (both known to be good) from the original gauges from my car. fuel gauge now steadily reads about a third, which is what the 940 one used to do i think, either i've used a lot of fuel to be down to that much, or something's wrong. should i remove the jumper on the back?

only issues that remain are:

knocking exhaust
gearbox mount
oil cooler mounts
shorten fuel tank straps
tracking
wayward petrol gauge/i've used a heck of a lot of diesel!
washer fluid warning lamp (i now have a sensor for it) always on
full service inc cam belt and water pump,

think i'll do the pump timing at the same time as the service, and maybe get the injectors pop tested as theres a little too much grey smoke for my liking. cleans up to nice black stuff when it's hot but more grey than i'd like when cold.


and that takes us to the end of the swap, but with issues still ongoing clearly!

Richard

raw
10-27-2013, 04:07 AM
since then, more has happened:

fitted these


http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy26/wally111111/F69%20TLN/driving%20lights/file_zps192edea0.jpg (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/wally111111/media/F69%20TLN/driving%20lights/file_zps192edea0.jpg.html)

recycling seemed sensible, especially as i had neither longer bolts nor big washers that i could find, to use his method (did have some fuel pipe though) one day i'll redo them properly:

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy26/wally111111/F69%20TLN/driving%20lights/file_zpsb2e7471b.jpg (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/wally111111/media/F69%20TLN/driving%20lights/file_zpsb2e7471b.jpg.html)

can anyone guess what i made the brackets from?

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy26/wally111111/F69%20TLN/driving%20lights/file_zpsa997ede8.jpg (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/wally111111/media/F69%20TLN/driving%20lights/file_zpsa997ede8.jpg.html)

got them wired in so they can only be on with the main beams, but you can still have main beams without if you want, they even work!

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy26/wally111111/F69%20TLN/driving%20lights/file_zps26721551.jpg (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/wally111111/media/F69%20TLN/driving%20lights/file_zps26721551.jpg.html)


this happened in june:

today was the highlight of it, after having got up at 0400 to go to Abbey Wood for an induction day. noticed on the way there that there seemed to be a lot of greasy spray getting on the back window meaning i had to have the rear wiper on intermittent from part way down the M5 all the way to bristol, and then noticed that something smelled a bit odd when i parked up. all a bit odd!

on the way back, got on the M5 north about 1715 with 1h40 to make it to rugby in order for my friend i was giving a lift to to catch his train to get back to cottesmore, so cutting it fine without even considering the fact i was taking it steady to reduce wear on my wheel bearing, which is on it's last legs btw. as i was going along the motorway, thought two things, one this car doesnt feel right, front end is all over the place, and two the rear window still seemed to be getting that odd yellow/brown greasy spray on the back window, which didnt look like normal road grime! pulled off at the first junction worrying that the wheel bearing might have got worse somehow during the day hence the vague front end, and after checking all the tyres looked ok with air in them, and then shaking the front wheel to feel for play in the bearing, i noticed that the wheel was covered in fluid, which was also dripping off the wheel arch!

opened to bonnet to see if i could work out what the fluid was maybe, to find that the entire n/s of the engine bay was also covered. was at this point that tom and i finally worked out what the smell was, diesel! started the engine back up to find diesel spraying out at an angle from the no1 injector! traced it to the rubber cap on the return line which had perished and split.

gets better, breakdown cover was cancelled with my old insurance policy, new insurance company are closed so cant find if i have breakdown from them, and neither greenflag nor the AA think i'm covered with them, so i had to join the AA, at a cost of £160, in order to have a van come out and fit a 10p rubber cap! better be a good part at that price!

oh well, that's todays woes, on with life eh!

changed my front wheel bearing to fix a rumble when turning right. it didn't fix it.

disabled my immobiliser in order to fix the starting issue. seems like the alarm i have couldn't source enough current to trigger the GRP crank signal and the starter solenoid.

realised that the noise i thought was the wheel bearing was a totally FUBARed gearbox mount.

crossmember wasn't much better :

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy26/wally111111/F69%20TLN/gearbox%20mount/file_zpsf1424553.jpg (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/wally111111/media/F69%20TLN/gearbox%20mount/file_zpsf1424553.jpg.html)

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy26/wally111111/F69%20TLN/gearbox%20mount/file_zpsf03a9bd2.jpg (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/wally111111/media/F69%20TLN/gearbox%20mount/file_zpsf03a9bd2.jpg.html)

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy26/wally111111/F69%20TLN/gearbox%20mount/file_zpscab9e998.jpg (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/wally111111/media/F69%20TLN/gearbox%20mount/file_zpscab9e998.jpg.html)

not great :| mount was absolutely fubared, and the cross member is actually surprisingly rigid, straightened where i bent it with a jack while doing the engine swap, and removed all the loose rust, and it's solid, if not acceptable.

gearbox mount itself however was a different matter, no wonder the gearbox was all over the place!

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy26/wally111111/F69%20TLN/gearbox%20mount/file_zps0050e300.jpg (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/wally111111/media/F69%20TLN/gearbox%20mount/file_zps0050e300.jpg.html)

and the other part (this rubber section is actually moulded around a piece of rectangular tube that's welded to the last piece, but no longer exists!)

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy26/wally111111/F69%20TLN/gearbox%20mount/file_zps291ef8d9.jpg (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/wally111111/media/F69%20TLN/gearbox%20mount/file_zps291ef8d9.jpg.html)

fixed the bodge properly and looked at how to fit a V70 electrical fan:

Richard

raw
10-27-2013, 04:08 AM
[QUOTE]ok, well i removed the bodge :)
oks fine from here!

looks fine from here!

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy26/wally111111/F69%20TLN/gearbox%20mount/file_zps3ae58967.jpg (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/wally111111/media/F69%20TLN/gearbox%20mount/file_zps3ae58967.jpg.html)

maybe not so :P

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy26/wally111111/F69%20TLN/gearbox%20mount/file_zpsb2c9d35b.jpg (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/wally111111/media/F69%20TLN/gearbox%20mount/file_zpsb2c9d35b.jpg.html)

old and new :)

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy26/wally111111/F69%20TLN/gearbox%20mount/file_zps30406107.jpg (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/wally111111/media/F69%20TLN/gearbox%20mount/file_zps30406107.jpg.html)

also patched the worst bits of the crossmember for now, and fitted the new mount, this is what went back in. me attempts at welding the crossmember up are not good, but the metal is very thin and rusty, so i'm not really surprised. it's a lot stronger than it was, and it wasnt showing any signs of this weakness causing problems, so i'm happy, but a new crossmember is still something i'm looking for sooner rather than later.

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy26/wally111111/F69%20TLN/gearbox%20mount/file_zpsdbea1663.jpg (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/wally111111/media/F69%20TLN/gearbox%20mount/file_zpsdbea1663.jpg.html)

ready to go back in :)

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy26/wally111111/F69%20TLN/gearbox%20mount/file_zps51bb7918.jpg (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/wally111111/media/F69%20TLN/gearbox%20mount/file_zps51bb7918.jpg.html)

today something else happened.

liberated the parts V70 of this... (that's the 940 one above and the one i planned to fit below)

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy26/wally111111/F69%20TLN/gearbox%20mount/file_zps12726d8b.jpg (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/wally111111/media/F69%20TLN/gearbox%20mount/file_zps12726d8b.jpg.html)

it didnt fit though, not really surprising considering it's from a transverse FWD and i'm trying to fit it to a longitudinal RWD. the rads are exactly the same size, but the bottom hose on the 940 rad fouls the cowl on the V70 fan unit. no problem :)

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy26/wally111111/F69%20TLN/gearbox%20mount/file_zps85362789.jpg (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/wally111111/media/F69%20TLN/gearbox%20mount/file_zps85362789.jpg.html)

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy26/wally111111/F69%20TLN/gearbox%20mount/file_zps321ec479.jpg (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/wally111111/media/F69%20TLN/gearbox%20mount/file_zps321ec479.jpg.html)

it fits, sort of!

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy26/wally111111/F69%20TLN/gearbox%20mount/file_zps537a66f0.jpg (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/wally111111/media/F69%20TLN/gearbox%20mount/file_zps537a66f0.jpg.html)

not enough space for a fan though :|

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy26/wally111111/F69%20TLN/gearbox%20mount/file_zpsf9f27ada.jpg (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/wally111111/media/F69%20TLN/gearbox%20mount/file_zpsf9f27ada.jpg.html)

then i had a brain wave :) que more hacking

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy26/wally111111/F69%20TLN/gearbox%20mount/file_zps4396ebf9.jpg (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/wally111111/media/F69%20TLN/gearbox%20mount/file_zps4396ebf9.jpg.html)

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy26/wally111111/F69%20TLN/gearbox%20mount/file_zps66b72a4d.jpg (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/wally111111/media/F69%20TLN/gearbox%20mount/file_zps66b72a4d.jpg.html)

this then goes in here to become this

raw
10-27-2013, 04:10 AM
http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy26/wally111111/F69%20TLN/gearbox%20mount/file_zpse05b57ca.jpg (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/wally111111/media/F69%20TLN/gearbox%20mount/file_zpse05b57ca.jpg.html)

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy26/wally111111/F69%20TLN/gearbox%20mount/file_zps7835f390.jpg (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/wally111111/media/F69%20TLN/gearbox%20mount/file_zps7835f390.jpg.html)

after some more trimming and fettling, this happened!

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy26/wally111111/F69%20TLN/gearbox%20mount/file_zps13e175dc.jpg (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/wally111111/media/F69%20TLN/gearbox%20mount/file_zps13e175dc.jpg.html)

proof the fan fits :)

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy26/wally111111/F69%20TLN/gearbox%20mount/file_zps56039373.jpg (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/wally111111/media/F69%20TLN/gearbox%20mount/file_zps56039373.jpg.html)

methinks the pulley might need rethinking though! http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy26/wally111111/F69%20TLN/gearbox%20mount/file_zps6aba3d70.jpg (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/wally111111/media/F69%20TLN/gearbox%20mount/file_zps6aba3d70.jpg.html)

i'm wondering if i could go without the fan pulley and find a shorter alternator belt maybe, or alternatively it's going to have to be machine back the centre bit of the pulley and use shorter studs, but it will still be close. plenty of clearance to the crank pulley and everything else though (the crank pulley is below the centre bit of the fan and has about 20mm clearance) :)

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy26/wally111111/F69%20TLN/gearbox%20mount/file_zpse81652c2.jpg (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/wally111111/media/F69%20TLN/gearbox%20mount/file_zpse81652c2.jpg.html)

other thing i need to work out is how i'm going to get the airflow inside the cowl to work properly again, as the piece of the 940 cowl sits a bit further into it than would be ideal to maximise the flow, but that's to work out once i've worked out the clearance issues and worked out something to give the signals for the two speed fan on an engine with next to no electrics!

replaced both rear wheel bearings and the prop centre bearing, engine serviced as well but didn't do the cam belt or water pump yet. changing the prop bearing highlighted my prop being out of balance, spent a whole day fiddling with it and talking to the engineering shop who put the new bearing on, eventually realised theres a really obvious alignment mark and it just slides together if you use that :P

pic i quite like

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy26/wally111111/F69%20TLN/20130819%20-%20Recent/file_zps9fcf8aab.jpg (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/wally111111/media/F69%20TLN/20130819%20-%20Recent/file_zps9fcf8aab.jpg.html)

did some more painting, flatting and polishing on my roof where i had removed the roof rack (rusty holes). got it looking slightly more monotone and shiny although still not perfect.

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy26/wally111111/F69%20TLN/20130819%20-%20Recent/file_zpsb163c557.jpg (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/wally111111/media/F69%20TLN/20130819%20-%20Recent/file_zpsb163c557.jpg.html)

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy26/wally111111/F69%20TLN/20130819%20-%20Recent/file_zps7e394c16.jpg (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/wally111111/media/F69%20TLN/20130819%20-%20Recent/file_zps7e394c16.jpg.html)

picked up a puncture from somewhere on the N/S/F tyre, and the spare was U/S as it had a cut in it, so got me a couple of near new part worns fitted for £36 by our local friendly scrappy. one is a nice barely used Avon TS2 and the other god only knows what but with similar tread :P they'll do for a bit and with the wheel that was on front right that had over 100g of balance weights to try and balance a dent in it back in the boot, suddenly my car is stable at speeds without wobbles again :D

then today this arrived as i was having my morning coffee. car's all loaded ready to go back to uni, but i need to unload it and go get a bike rack from storage. thinking if i'm going to be here half the day i may as well get these fitted too.

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy26/wally111111/F69%20TLN/20130926%20-%20Lowering/file_zpsbd2aac25.jpg (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/wally111111/media/F69%20TLN/20130926%20-%20Lowering/file_zpsbd2aac25.jpg.html)

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy26/wally111111/F69%20TLN/20130926%20-%20Lowering/file_zps3fc5277e.jpg (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/wally111111/media/F69%20TLN/20130926%20-%20Lowering/file_zps3fc5277e.jpg.html)

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy26/wally111111/F69%20TLN/20130926%20-%20Lowering/file_zps618f2acb.jpg (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/wally111111/media/F69%20TLN/20130926%20-%20Lowering/file_zps618f2acb.jpg.html)

they are a bit yellow! if it doesnt go low enough to hide them then i might have to paint them black but for now they can go on :)

raw
10-27-2013, 04:13 AM
got them fitted:

so, started with moving the car off the nice off street drive onto the road, as apparently i mess the gravel up when working on the car :S anyways, front end up,

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy26/wally111111/F69%20TLN/20130926%20-%20Lowering/file_zpscaaf2c5f.jpg (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/wally111111/media/F69%20TLN/20130926%20-%20Lowering/file_zpscaaf2c5f.jpg.html)

O/S Strut out, compress spring, spring off, side by side with the new one

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy26/wally111111/F69%20TLN/20130926%20-%20Lowering/file_zpsd1e3e626.jpg (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/wally111111/media/F69%20TLN/20130926%20-%20Lowering/file_zpsd1e3e626.jpg.html)

and reassebled:

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy26/wally111111/F69%20TLN/20130926%20-%20Lowering/file_zpsa60ec3c9.jpg (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/wally111111/media/F69%20TLN/20130926%20-%20Lowering/file_zpsa60ec3c9.jpg.html)

very comfortable ball joint needed changing before the strut could go back in. normally a sharp tap to the bottom frees these (i've changed them a few times) but didnt work with these. tried ball joint chisel thing, ended up using lots of fire, several hammers and in the end a sledgehammer! on closer inspection these (these are the ones off the 940 so not ones i've changed before) were the original volvo marked ones i think! no wonder they didnt want to come free.

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy26/wally111111/F69%20TLN/20130926%20-%20Lowering/file_zpsd5e16780.jpg (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/wally111111/media/F69%20TLN/20130926%20-%20Lowering/file_zpsd5e16780.jpg.html)

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy26/wally111111/F69%20TLN/20130926%20-%20Lowering/file_zpsc818d7b8.jpg (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/wally111111/media/F69%20TLN/20130926%20-%20Lowering/file_zpsc818d7b8.jpg.html)

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy26/wally111111/F69%20TLN/20130926%20-%20Lowering/file_zps9f603d42.jpg (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/wally111111/media/F69%20TLN/20130926%20-%20Lowering/file_zps9f603d42.jpg.html)

inadvertantly dropped chisel on lighter, which promptly exploded!

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy26/wally111111/F69%20TLN/20130926%20-%20Lowering/file_zps2efa05fa.jpg (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/wally111111/media/F69%20TLN/20130926%20-%20Lowering/file_zps2efa05fa.jpg.html)

bigger hammer was needed

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy26/wally111111/F69%20TLN/20130926%20-%20Lowering/file_zpsfa962998.jpg (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/wally111111/media/F69%20TLN/20130926%20-%20Lowering/file_zpsfa962998.jpg.html)

front back together and back on the group :D strangely it doesnt look that low in this photo, but there was actually quite a pronounced rake going on!

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy26/wally111111/F69%20TLN/20130926%20-%20Lowering/file_zps84e6e0ee.jpg (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/wally111111/media/F69%20TLN/20130926%20-%20Lowering/file_zps84e6e0ee.jpg.html)

rear up in the air, lots of extensions needed for this bit!

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy26/wally111111/F69%20TLN/20130926%20-%20Lowering/file_zps80c6fd9d.jpg (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/wally111111/media/F69%20TLN/20130926%20-%20Lowering/file_zps80c6fd9d.jpg.html)

these are the bolts that i used to reassemble when i changed for the HD springs, i found that i couldnt squash the spring seat enough to get the originals back in so just used some longer threaded bolts. think they're M8x40 maybe? obviously if anyone does the same, make sure they're good quality bolts, these are 8.8 marked which is good enough i think.

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy26/wally111111/F69%20TLN/20130926%20-%20Lowering/file_zps4888996c.jpg (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/wally111111/media/F69%20TLN/20130926%20-%20Lowering/file_zps4888996c.jpg.html)

getting the O/S Spring out is more difficult than the N/S. there's no need to compress either, as the tops slide out backwards, but on the O/S it just takes a bit of force to get it past the exhaust box.

reassembled the spring top mount on the new spring.

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy26/wally111111/F69%20TLN/20130926%20-%20Lowering/file_zps6901e315.jpg (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/wally111111/media/F69%20TLN/20130926%20-%20Lowering/file_zps6901e315.jpg.html)

and all back on the ground. more difficult than it sounds as i didnt think about not being able to get the jack out from under the diff when i put the stands under, making it hard to lower the car down!

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy26/wally111111/F69%20TLN/20130926%20-%20Lowering/file_zpsdf4eb45e.jpg (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/wally111111/media/F69%20TLN/20130926%20-%20Lowering/file_zpsdf4eb45e.jpg.html)

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy26/wally111111/F69%20TLN/20130926%20-%20Lowering/file_zpsa6bd157a.jpg (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/wally111111/media/F69%20TLN/20130926%20-%20Lowering/file_zpsa6bd157a.jpg.html)

all the angles on the front look ok to me too

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy26/wally111111/F69%20TLN/20130926%20-%20Lowering/file_zps5708df46.jpg (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/wally111111/media/F69%20TLN/20130926%20-%20Lowering/file_zps5708df46.jpg.html)

then after fitting lowering springs, it was pressed straight back into use lugging things about :| clever planning there! yes, that's tuck on the rear axle. did have two large trays of marble tiles in the back though, and a bike :P it sits maybe an inch higher normally, and the arch gap is fairly similar front and rear now too, which means the front has dropped more than the back thankfully :)

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy26/wally111111/F69%20TLN/20130926%20-%20Lowering/file_zps9166eee8.jpg (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/wally111111/media/F69%20TLN/20130926%20-%20Lowering/file_zps9166eee8.jpg.html)

so, all done, will get some more photos up when it's settled a bit too.

drove back up to loughborough this evening, with an entire boot full, seats down and all, and bike on the back. should have got a photo! car feels really good though, much less roll, firm but not crashy ride, and strangely it feels like i'm going a lot slower all the time! was really weird sitting in the slow lane of the motorway all the way to uni, doing about 65MPH which feels like about 50 compared to before! when pressing on a bit before loading up, it did feel a bit more understeery than before, and also seems to follow bumps more than before, i wonder if perhaps it could do with a little more caster?

raw
10-27-2013, 04:14 AM
met up with some friends and ended up being able to take this when i got back, love this photo a lot at the moment!

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy26/wally111111/F69%20TLN/20131019%20-%20HYDRAS/file_zps78d432bc.jpg (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/wally111111/media/F69%20TLN/20131019%20-%20HYDRAS/file_zps78d432bc.jpg.html)

yep, set of hydras :D

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy26/wally111111/F69%20TLN/20131019%20-%20HYDRAS/file_zps4bf5148b.jpg (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/wally111111/media/F69%20TLN/20131019%20-%20HYDRAS/file_zps4bf5148b.jpg.html)

in future i'll try to keep this site as well updated as the other one!

hope you all like the updates, and yes, i'm loving D24TIC ownership :D

Richard

RedArrow
10-27-2013, 03:00 PM
Nice setup!
That`s what you did today? Got Hydras? They look great. Proof: I happened to do the same thing TODAY!
Just curiosity: How much did you pay for the rims?

raw
10-28-2013, 02:08 AM
hi,

not a recent thing, i collected them about two weeks ago now, they're sitting in my room at home as an ornament :P i really want to see how they look on the car, but they might wait until next spring actually - i think i'm going to refurbish them as they're not all mint (one is freshly refurbed, but with a bad spray job, two are good, and the last has some corrosion).

they do look great on your car! out of interest, the size difference between them and your dracos is quite clear, are you running undersize tyres on the front/oversize on the rear?

Richard

RedArrow
10-28-2013, 03:25 PM
they're not all mint
...
they do look great on your car! out of interest, the size difference between them and your dracos is quite clear, are you running undersize tyres on the front/oversize on the rear?

Hi, thanks. I wasn`t patient at all to wait how they look so I put them on asap; although they aren`t perfect looking either. I will have to spend at least a few hours each to make them look nice. From now on, I can`t even imagine the car on those Dracos anymore which are only 1inch smaller in diameter but they do look soo small! Also, to me the Dracos look `roundish` (like Virgo rims) and Hydras look more `square`... In my opinion they are a much better match to these beautifully boxy cars, the 700 series, especially the Wagon! A more aggressive, more modern looks, a`newer` design makes car look younger. :) I`m sure there are many Volvo enthusiasts out there who simply hate them but I love them so far.
Here I mention that driving feels much better, handling and stability improved a LOT! Less road-noise and much less `shaky ride` on small bumps where road surface is bad.
All my tires on these Hydras are 205/55 R16, front and rear too. I don`t know if it means undersized or oversized but I guess it is oversized front&rear. I guess the car could take 225s without fitment issues, especially on rear. The Hydras are 6.5 wide and Dracos are only 6 so for 225s there might be a wider rim needed? Idk, I`m not an expert at rim&tire upgrades (expensive games those are! :))

Info for the 1986 760 Turbodiesel, by factory:
Standard tire size: 185/65 HR 15 (This is what I have on the Draco rims btw.)
For the 1986 Turbo (petrol) it is 195/60 HR 15.

(My Hydras with 205/55r16 -s came off a 1990 740.)
Also, Volvo 850 `s have those `swirl-type` rims (16) that fit on 7xx Volvos no problem (5*108 pattern). I think they look good on wagons. See the blue 760 to decide!

Source: http://www.automobile-catalog.com/tire/1986/50480/volvo_760_gle_turbo_diesel.html

raw
10-30-2013, 07:42 AM
i have to agree with everything you've said, and i can't wait to see mine on them either, but i'm going to force myself to! i have winter steelies anyway, so they'll be going on soon as i have a funny feeling we're going to have a very short autumn in England this year and go straight to winter very soon!

got to agree with the comment about the 'shape' of the wheel too, IMO hydras and the other one i can't remember the name of suit the shape of the early 700s best, while the galaxies and polaris look best on the later 900 series cars (that said i very nearly bought a set of galaxies this summer :P)

FYI: 205/55/R16 is the correct standard size for R16 on a 700 series, with either 195/60/R15 on alloys or 185/65/R15 on steels being the standard on R15s (i think). mine had 185 15s on the steelies when i first got it, but currently sits on 195/60/R15 on the Omegas that it's on at the moment. to my knowledge this is the correct sizings, and my speedo reads correct up to about 90MPH so I don't doubt this. i'm sure you could get maybe a 225 width on a 16x6.5, but obviously you'd have to go down to maybe a 50 or a 45 profile to keep the rolling radius correct. in theory i don't think there would be any clearance issues with this either :)

i do quite like the 850 t5 alloys (can't remember the name at the moment), and am thinking of trying to find a set for my mom's V70 maybe, but they would need spacers to correct the offset on a 700. still very chuffed with my finding these hydras though :D


what's the colour on that 760, it's really lovely!

Richard

RedArrow
10-30-2013, 07:52 PM
i have to agree with everything you've said, and i can't wait to see mine on them either, but i'm going to force myself to! i have winter steelies anyway, so they'll be going on soon as i have a funny feeling we're going to have a very short autumn in England this year and go straight to winter very soon!

i do quite like the 850 t5 alloys (can't remember the name at the moment), and am thinking of trying to find a set for my mom's V70 maybe, but they would need spacers to correct the offset on a 700. still very chuffed with my finding these hydras though :D


what's the colour on that 760, it's really lovely!

Richard

The whole island is always constantly trying to survive that ``UK weather``. :)

I don`t know what type of blue it is called but here`s the plate.

raw
10-31-2013, 04:19 AM
uk weather isn't really weather at all, just different types of grey.

as for the colour, apparently it's an 85-86 colour, light blue met, imaginative name! mines called riviera blue met, though strangely it wasn't on the site i looked that one up on, so maybe a colour that wasn't available in the US?

Richard

raw
11-04-2013, 01:25 PM
crap photo i'm afraid

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy26/wally111111/IMG_2406_zps4048d2a6.jpg (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/wally111111/media/IMG_2406_zps4048d2a6.jpg.html)

hehehehe

Richard

raw
01-02-2014, 09:44 AM
my engine currently looks like this!

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy26/wally111111/F69%20TLN/20140102%20%20-%20CAM%20BELT/IMG_2533_zpsbfff10c8.jpg (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/wally111111/media/F69%20TLN/20140102%20%20-%20CAM%20BELT/IMG_2533_zpsbfff10c8.jpg.html)

anyone got any genius ideas as to how i do the crank pulley back up seeing as i used the starter motor to unto it?

More later after i do some revision.

Rich

v8volvo
01-02-2014, 10:50 AM
Wow, you have one of those late D24TIC EGR motors with the extra timing belt tensioner... Cool. Older ones used the water pump (mounted with slotted holes) to set the belt tension... the later ones like this should be easier.

Volvo special tool 9995187 is what is supposed to be used for crank pulley torquing. It grabs the lugs on the inside of the balancer and counterholds it while you reef on it with a cheater bar to get about 350# of torque on the bolt. Not too many other alternatives, if you want to actually torque it to the spec, you pretty much have to have the tool, or make a homemade copy (as some on here have done). Here in the US the tool is pretty much unobtainium unless you luck out at a Volvo indy shop or dealer that has it and is willing to let it go or can borrow it from a forum member here. May be easier to track one down in the UK since anyplace that does serious work on VW LT vans with this engine should also have one.

You might contact 745 TurboGreasel for some dimensional info on the homebrew tools he made; if you are handy with a welder or know someone who is, that may be your easiest option.

Original tool looks like this, also pictured is wrench extension 9995188 which makes the job easier but can be done without:
http://www.k-jet.org/img/articles/diagrams/tools/5187.JPG

raw
01-02-2014, 10:54 AM
yeah, i knew about the tool, theres a guy in the UK making one which i was down to borrow, hence not having done the job already, but i will post a message in a mo which explains why i started on it today instead. i spoke to volvo uk about the tool, but apparently it's NLA and was about £130 when it was! i actually have the dealer tool for the other pulleys, as it's the same as the one for the D5252T in the V70, which volvo sold me instead of the crank pulley tool for that :P

think i'm just going to go with as tight as i can get it up to with the handbrake on in fifth, with someone on the brakes, and if that's not torque before the clutch slips then it'll have to do until i can borrow the right tool!

cheers for the reply :)

Richard

raw
01-02-2014, 10:55 AM
i've finally made a start on changing my cam belt, must be something going on at the moment as since i started i've noticed that steve (doingitsideways) has also been talking about doing his!

i went out to do a service, started with dropping the oil, which was a task in itself, couldn't get the bloody sump plug off! really must replace that thing! anyway, oil eventually out, i then set about cleaning the crank case breather system and the EGR system, just cos i could, and while stripping these bits off ended up with this:

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy26/wally111111/F69%20TLN/20140102%20%20-%20CAM%20BELT/IMG_2521_zps6610bceb.jpg (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/wally111111/media/F69%20TLN/20140102%20%20-%20CAM%20BELT/IMG_2521_zps6610bceb.jpg.html)

broken EGR stud :| after some cursing i realised the car wasn't going to be running again today so i may as well do the water pump service that i needed to do anyway!

box full of bits soaking in petrol:

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy26/wally111111/F69%20TLN/20140102%20%20-%20CAM%20BELT/IMG_2529_zps9bdbf585.jpg (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/wally111111/media/F69%20TLN/20140102%20%20-%20CAM%20BELT/IMG_2529_zps9bdbf585.jpg.html)

front of engine stripped:

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy26/wally111111/F69%20TLN/20140102%20%20-%20CAM%20BELT/IMG_2532_zps2535bc76.jpg (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/wally111111/media/F69%20TLN/20140102%20%20-%20CAM%20BELT/IMG_2532_zps2535bc76.jpg.html)

tomorrow i need to:

acquire new crank pulley bolt
acquire new EGR pipe studs
acquire more oil! (only got 6 ltrs)
have fan pulley machined for leccy fan to fit
clean and paint cam shaft cover
wire leccy fan
drain coolant
remove rad and intercooler
remove water pump, cam belt idler and cam shaft sprocket
remove inception pump belt cover and belt
fit new water pump, cam belt idler and tensioner, cam belt
refit crank shaft sprocket and cam shaft sprocket
fit new injection pump belt and refit cover
refit intercooler and radiator, with leccy fan
refit EGR system with clean valve and new studs
refit all intercooler piping
refill coolant and oil
time injection pump
fit new gearbox crossmember that's finally been painted :D

think that should keep me busy when i should be revising!

think my list of problems with the car would then be down to just the GPR, the immobiliser that's not connected to immobilise anything, the new leather seats that i can't fit as i have no wiring for the leccy drivers seat and the brackets are all different for the rears in general, the trim that seems to rattle and creak from everywhere, the radio that won't tune in to FM but does still receive FM, and all the body work problems. probably more actually but that's all i can think of now, why do we keep old cars again???

Richard

EDIT: scoob, yeah, i was thinking the same thing about how to tighten it, ouldnt think of any other way, just hope i can get it tight enough!

jbg
01-02-2014, 06:28 PM
Here in the US the tool is pretty much unobtainium unless you luck out at a Volvo indy shop or dealer that has it and is willing to let it go or can borrow it from a forum member here.

On December 31, 2011 I was able to buy this tool and several others from SPX/Rotunda which I think might be a part of OTC. I'd have to look in my notes what I paid but at the time it was reasonable, especially considering the tools are very hard to come by. These were new stock, not necessarily NOS; very high quality. I got the tip from Robert Ludwick on the older D24 ML; from Robert:

"The number I have for Rotunda is one where, when I've called it, they have assumed right off that I was a legit shop and were ready to sell to me, no questions asked. It's the direct Volvo tools inside line within Rotunda, which I believe is used by Kent-Moore. OK, here's the one I have: 1-800-345-3399."

Actually, no kidding, in searching for this info I found my own post from the D24 ML in 2009; from me:

"I was successful in ordering the V9995199 ($39) and V9995201 ($58) tools from the number George posted (1-800-345-3399). They are the Ford-Lincoln-Mercury-Volvo tools retail division of SPX. They did not require me to be part of a service shop, only that I pay with a credit card if I did not already have a customer account."

Again I'd need to check what I paid for 9995187 but all prices seemed reasonable.

raw
01-03-2014, 07:04 AM
cheers for that jim, wish there was some way of me getting them in the UK, if only it was so easy though, apparently volvo can't get them!

ok, so i'm actually attaching new parts, and shiny clean ones, and painted ones even!

cleaned up this mess:

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy26/wally111111/F69%20TLN/20140103%20-%20Cam%20Belt%20Cont/IMG_2550_zps003f0961.jpg (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/wally111111/media/F69%20TLN/20140103%20-%20Cam%20Belt%20Cont/IMG_2550_zps003f0961.jpg.html)

to this:

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy26/wally111111/F69%20TLN/20140103%20-%20Cam%20Belt%20Cont/IMG_2561_zpsb558de43.jpg (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/wally111111/media/F69%20TLN/20140103%20-%20Cam%20Belt%20Cont/IMG_2561_zpsb558de43.jpg.html)

the bottom ally part is still not perfect but short of taking it off and soaking it in petrol i don't think it ever will be, and i don't know what's bhind it so i'm not doing that.

new and old:

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy26/wally111111/F69%20TLN/20140103%20-%20Cam%20Belt%20Cont/IMG_2545_zps786e3788.jpg (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/wally111111/media/F69%20TLN/20140103%20-%20Cam%20Belt%20Cont/IMG_2545_zps786e3788.jpg.html)

pulley is a little smaller on the new one but it's the same in every other way and the impeller is metal which is good as most seem to be plastic these days like the last one was.

the full set:

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy26/wally111111/F69%20TLN/20140103%20-%20Cam%20Belt%20Cont/IMG_2555_zps3ec8dbcd.jpg (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/wally111111/media/F69%20TLN/20140103%20-%20Cam%20Belt%20Cont/IMG_2555_zps3ec8dbcd.jpg.html)

painted up the covers:

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy26/wally111111/F69%20TLN/20140103%20-%20Cam%20Belt%20Cont/IMG_2565_zps530d9905.jpg (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/wally111111/media/F69%20TLN/20140103%20-%20Cam%20Belt%20Cont/IMG_2565_zps530d9905.jpg.html)

and started reassembly:

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy26/wally111111/F69%20TLN/20140103%20-%20Cam%20Belt%20Cont/IMG_2567_zps19604dcb.jpg (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/wally111111/media/F69%20TLN/20140103%20-%20Cam%20Belt%20Cont/IMG_2567_zps19604dcb.jpg.html)

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy26/wally111111/F69%20TLN/20140103%20-%20Cam%20Belt%20Cont/IMG_2572_zpsed9d66b9.jpg (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/wally111111/media/F69%20TLN/20140103%20-%20Cam%20Belt%20Cont/IMG_2572_zpsed9d66b9.jpg.html)

more when the photos upload

Richard

745 TurboGreasel
01-03-2014, 01:14 PM
VW may still have those tools on your side?
I take my weight to determine how far out on the wrench handle I stand to torque that bolt.
My SillyServiceTools; http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=228915

http://www.cditorque.com/torque_facts/wrench-graphic.jpg

raw
01-05-2014, 11:53 PM
cheers for that reply, definitely makes sense. i think the same theory is used to make sure that wheel braces tighten wheel nuts to roughly the right torque isn't it?

right, so what happened on saturday morning?

the day started with 'fire, to destroy all you've done...' (i posted this on VOC last night and i will make it clear on here that i have no knowledge of who that song is by and don't know any of the song other than that line, which is featured in the background in 'hot fuzz')

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy26/wally111111/F69%20TLN/20140104%20-%20Cam%20Belt%20Cont/IMG_2574_zps9646a897.jpg (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/wally111111/media/F69%20TLN/20140104%20-%20Cam%20Belt%20Cont/IMG_2574_zps9646a897.jpg.html)

in my case it was to remove the evidence of me having sheared off an EGR pipe stud.

having made surprisingly easy work of that i moved on to some cleaning:

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy26/wally111111/F69%20TLN/20140104%20-%20Cam%20Belt%20Cont/IMG_2575_zps11fac0a4.jpg (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/wally111111/media/F69%20TLN/20140104%20-%20Cam%20Belt%20Cont/IMG_2575_zps11fac0a4.jpg.html)

as you can see it was already starting to rain by the time i got this pipe clean enough to notice that damage. its not all that clear but something has cut pretty deep into now of my intercooler pipes! will have to find a replacement one sometime and i don't see any chance of the intercooler being upgraded any time soon so a standard replacement may have to be found.

anyway, by now it was raining properly, so i took over the kitchen worktop (after protecting it from damage of course - definitely didn't have to be told to do that one and i've certainly never managed to drill a hole in it before which wouldn't have anything to do with why i'm forced to be so careful now - and i started working on a little modification that i've been planning for a while and thought i'd implement while all the parts were off already.

a while back i faffed about with the fan from the V70 that i broke trying to make it fit my fan shroud and still clear the fan pulley on the D24. saturday i decided i'd make it fit while i had all the bits off, especially since my viscous coupling had seized solid. this was what i ended up with after a bit of cleaning (i decided that the fan shroud was wwayyy to dirty to be in my engine bay)

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy26/wally111111/F69%20TLN/20140104%20-%20Cam%20Belt%20Cont/IMG_2577_zps3f56f7d7.jpg (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/wally111111/media/F69%20TLN/20140104%20-%20Cam%20Belt%20Cont/IMG_2577_zps3f56f7d7.jpg.html)

a few screws and some filing:

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy26/wally111111/F69%20TLN/20140104%20-%20Cam%20Belt%20Cont/IMG_2580_zps03189179.jpg (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/wally111111/media/F69%20TLN/20140104%20-%20Cam%20Belt%20Cont/IMG_2580_zps03189179.jpg.html)

add a fan:

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy26/wally111111/F69%20TLN/20140104%20-%20Cam%20Belt%20Cont/IMG_2584_zpse28f9c95.jpg (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/wally111111/media/F69%20TLN/20140104%20-%20Cam%20Belt%20Cont/IMG_2584_zpse28f9c95.jpg.html)

job done, it actually looks fairly decent surprisingly!

missing in all my photos for some reason is the bracket off the V70 which will hold the relay and the thermostat which i stuck together as theres no fixing method on the thermostat.

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy26/wally111111/F69%20TLN/20140104%20-%20Cam%20Belt%20Cont/IMG_2583_zps38d3df89.jpg (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/wally111111/media/F69%20TLN/20140104%20-%20Cam%20Belt%20Cont/IMG_2583_zps38d3df89.jpg.html)

there you go, one new electric fan shroud and complete wiring for it. total cost so far, one thermostat off ebay for less than a tenner including postage :)

remaining issue, i don't think its actually far enough forward to clear the standard fan pulley, hence i'm removing the standard fan pulley all together and fitting a shorter belt to just go to the alternator alone.

simples :)

Richard

745 TurboGreasel
01-06-2014, 12:17 AM
Looks like the TIC does not have the blow open deals on the side of the shroud the older cars do.

for the IC hose, You could wrap it in the as seen on TV silicone 'emergancy repair tape'.
I fabricated about 3 inches of my crank vent hose out of it after a chunk fell off(it was really hard n brittle), and it held for a year, and was still good when I found a fresher hose.

A tire patch wold probably work fine too.

raw
01-07-2014, 01:33 PM
So the old girl is living again, running smoother than ever, quieter and it's amazing how much more refined it is with no fan! Electric fan all fotted and wired too and works, set the thermostat to 80 degrees and it seems to come on when you give it a bit of a pasting, and then go off when you are gentle which seems about right to me at the moment, maybe I'll adjust a little if someone suggests I may be wrong.

No obvious leaks either and all sounds good �� PSF still leaking obviously as I haven't gone near it and still haven't fitted the bed gearbox crossmember either but exams need to come first at the moment. Interestingly the steering feels a lot lighter without the fan ok the front and I think I need to turn the idle down a tiny bit too!

Richard

v8volvo
01-13-2014, 01:11 PM
Nicely done, looking good! Interesting to see that later style belt setup in detail. Surprising they made so many changes to the front of the motor just for a couple final years that they were building it. Wonder what the benefits were, other than making it a little easier to work on.

Good to hear it's running well. Did you find a good way to torque that crank center bolt? Don't want to risk running too long without that all the way tight -- would ruin your day if it slipped!

raw
01-13-2014, 11:27 PM
I did the crank bolt with a three foot bar, thick wall steel pipe over that as an extension, and as toght as I could get it with the car in fifth, with someone standing on the brakes. It was tight enough that the car was starting to move so I hope it's right enough, but my torque wrench only goes to 200Nm so that wasn't much help!

Richard

CRB
02-14-2014, 12:20 PM
Good stuff RAW.
Your song is 'Fire' by The crazy world of Arthur Brown.

raw
02-23-2014, 10:12 AM
hi all, update time!

CRB, I was informed of this over on the VOC forums when I posted the same post, though I personally only know it from where it appears in 'Hot Fuzz'.

Does anyone have any thoughts on the setting of the electrical fan? After some more use I've been finding that actually the fan comes on fairly regularly when you stop the car, but is almost always off when moving forwards, and goes off after about a minute or so, so I think it's doing the job. Certainly the temperature gauge hasn't done anything unusual and the car hasn't seemed particularly hot or cold, the heater works quicker on a cold morning since the warm up time is reduced and the fuel economy is averaging 37MPG which is pretty respectable I think. I wound the idle back down and need to reset the pump timing and the cold start device, since I am a fool and adjusted the timing when it wouldn't run right after the belt job, before remembering that the cold start was still disconnected and that advances the timeing when cold - now the timing is too advanced.

Been working on the car the last couple of days, trying to find the cause of a rumbling noise I've had - see the 700/900 section for a thread about it if anyone's interested - I think I may have today found the true cause for this!

Lesson's I've learned/been reminded of today:

If you point fire at something it usually gets hot
Hot, burning underseal invariably falls on your hands
Hot, burning underseal sticks to skin quite well
Safety Specs, while good when using machine tools, are worse than useless under a car - I think about the only thing that would keep dust out of your eyes under there might be swimming goggles
Red Oxide Primer is not a nice paint to use, but at least it dry's fast!
Don't get Power Steering Fluid in your eyes
Car need's to pay a visit to the LSUMC garage and I need to learn to use the welder :/

Richard

raw
02-23-2014, 12:58 PM
So, what's been going on!

Well, I've been at uni and my car's been in service being used for getting to and from places by mom's fiancée and doing it without problem it would seem, although I came home on friday to find that the rumbling noise I had left was certainly getting louder - I know the state of our roads is bad, but I don't think road noise would get that much more noticeable so i figured I'd better have a look to work out what it could be!

I went to jack the car up, and decided that the fact that the rivets are coming out of my cheapo old axle stands, that were only rated to 500kg each to begin with, told me they had done their time and that it was time for me to move on. A quick search on the internet showed me that £23 could have me a nice pair of 1000kg each solid welded ratchet type stands from the Halfrauds Advanced Professional Lifetime Guaranteed Range, so i gingerly drove to Rugby, since it was the nearest Halfords big enough to have some in stock. Got myself a trade card while I was there and ended up paying £19 for them I think, not a terrible deal really, though I'll get another pair and a new jack sometime, probably from SGS Engineering on t'internet.

Back home and about that noise, now my first suspicion was the centre prop bearing, which I've changed before, but I have no idea why I thought that was what it was tbh, it was just my first guess given what the noise was. After a little inspection it seemed less likely, I could neither see nor feel anything wrong with the bearing apart from the fact that the dust cover things are still loose - clearly need to be less sparing with my epoxy resin!

Next I thought the worst - remembering that my diff makes an odd clunk clunk kind of noise when the rear wheels are rotated (and half hoping I'd 'have' to change the rear axle and conveniently stumble upon a 3.31 ratio 1041), I guessed that the noise, which in fairness does kind of sound like the noise the axle makes but sped up, was something to do with my differential. I changed the diff oil in the hope that the condition of the oil would tell me something - it came out clean and smelling about as good as 75W90 Hypoid Gear Oil ever does :P This I was kind of glad of seeing as I only put it in there about 6000 miles ago! On test-driving afterwards, I believed that it seemed to have quietened down a little, but it's definitely still there and LOUD, and I may have been imagining the change tbh :P

Back home research into diagnosing possible differential issues went on, and I decided it might be the carrier bearings in the axle, though it did seem a little odd to have a problem with a 1031, seeing as I always thought they were pretty bombproof?

Rather than waste the last of the light though, I got the front up and set about changing my gearbox crossmember since i got a nice now one that I'd painted up so it looked nice and new, and the old was a little past it's best to say the least.

Old on the right, new on the left:

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy26/wally111111/F69%20TLN/20140223%20-%20Rumbling/IMG_2669_zps321a3ba7.jpg (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/wally111111/media/F69%20TLN/20140223%20-%20Rumbling/IMG_2669_zps321a3ba7.jpg.html)

As above, not the missing bits where rust has attacked the old one, and how well the wax oil hides my welding :P

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy26/wally111111/F69%20TLN/20140223%20-%20Rumbling/IMG_2671_zps50198120.jpg (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/wally111111/media/F69%20TLN/20140223%20-%20Rumbling/IMG_2671_zps50198120.jpg.html)

Also note how despite me belief that the M90 crossmember was the same as the Auto crossmember and they were all the same, these aren't :|

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy26/wally111111/F69%20TLN/20140223%20-%20Rumbling/IMG_2673_zps61b5fc9e.jpg (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/wally111111/media/F69%20TLN/20140223%20-%20Rumbling/IMG_2673_zps61b5fc9e.jpg.html)

Thinking NVH (Noise, Vibration and Harmonics), I decided I'd better not fit it with no bushing's at all, so in the absence of whatever are meant to be used, I attacked the ones from the old crossmember with a knife, and made some little rubber washers to go between the crossmember and the car:

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy26/wally111111/F69%20TLN/20140223%20-%20Rumbling/IMG_2675_zps7d8cb816.jpg (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/wally111111/media/F69%20TLN/20140223%20-%20Rumbling/IMG_2675_zps7d8cb816.jpg.html)

Then as I fitted this it went dark, so photo's from yesterday stop. So much for trying to take plenty :|

This morning started late :P but when it did it started with deciding to rectify my long standing power steering leak (since I still haven't taken the car back for an engineer's report about the engine swap since I was given an MOT on account of the last words I heard from the tester having been, 'I'll give you a pass cos I know you'll go and fix that, NOW.')

The offending fluid union (with drip proving that not all the fluid had leaked out :P):

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy26/wally111111/F69%20TLN/20140223%20-%20Rumbling/IMG_2682_zps3d179e27.jpg (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/wally111111/media/F69%20TLN/20140223%20-%20Rumbling/IMG_2682_zps3d179e27.jpg.html)

Some may notice that despite being disconnected from the rack, the bolt part of the union remains firmly in the other bit, whatever it's called. That would be down to the 'sealing' washers, that have embedded themselves in the thread of the bolt and decided it's not coming off. In the end i had to resort to one of my decent wood chisels (you know, the ones that are actually sharp and hence hidden from others who might use them inappropriately :P) in order to pry the thing free :| This shows the remains of the washers:

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy26/wally111111/F69%20TLN/20140223%20-%20Rumbling/IMG_2684_zps29976689.jpg (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/wally111111/media/F69%20TLN/20140223%20-%20Rumbling/IMG_2684_zps29976689.jpg.html)

I now started on something else, that I shall come to later after finishing this part of the story so that things make sense. Suffice to say at this point, that I haven't been being the most logical or methodical person today!

Couple of sealing washers and boshed the unions back on, topped up the system, bled and no leaks :D The liquid on everything is degreaser sprayed everywhere in an attempt to clear up some of the power steering fluid that has coated most of the offside of the car since this leak.

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy26/wally111111/F69%20TLN/20140223%20-%20Rumbling/IMG_2695_zps26b5152e.jpg (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/wally111111/media/F69%20TLN/20140223%20-%20Rumbling/IMG_2695_zps26b5152e.jpg.html)

More in a moment :)

Richard

raw
02-23-2014, 01:52 PM
So, more did happen today than just fixing a power steering leak, I managed to get an awful lot of undersell in my hair and eyes, and poke a few holes in my floor as a reward :|

Now, I've known about this one hole for a while, so i decided to catch it and stop it going any further until i can deal with it properly sometime in the nicer weather. It turned out to be a little more than I expected tbh, but its not the end of the world I suppose:

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy26/wally111111/F69%20TLN/20140223%20-%20Rumbling/IMG_2688_zps1593309c.jpg (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/wally111111/media/F69%20TLN/20140223%20-%20Rumbling/IMG_2688_zps1593309c.jpg.html)

As is always the way when you decide to, 'just sort that little bit there,' I noticed this looked a bit crusty:

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy26/wally111111/F69%20TLN/20140223%20-%20Rumbling/IMG_2687_zps97acf808.jpg (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/wally111111/media/F69%20TLN/20140223%20-%20Rumbling/IMG_2687_zps97acf808.jpg.html)

And thought I'd just check this bit too... Oh, that'll be another hole then!

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy26/wally111111/F69%20TLN/20140223%20-%20Rumbling/IMG_2704_zps157157ba.jpg (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/wally111111/media/F69%20TLN/20140223%20-%20Rumbling/IMG_2704_zps157157ba.jpg.html)

See what I meant when I said I wasn't being particularly methodical?

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy26/wally111111/F69%20TLN/20140223%20-%20Rumbling/IMG_2706_zps897f5a99.jpg (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/wally111111/media/F69%20TLN/20140223%20-%20Rumbling/IMG_2706_zps897f5a99.jpg.html)

Other side of the jacking point:

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy26/wally111111/F69%20TLN/20140223%20-%20Rumbling/IMG_2708_zpsf7999d17.jpg (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/wally111111/media/F69%20TLN/20140223%20-%20Rumbling/IMG_2708_zpsf7999d17.jpg.html)

At this point I had a cup of tea and decided I should be a little more logical. Clearly I need to go over the whole of the bottom of the car and check it over for rust, and deal with what I find, repaint and retreat and then the car should be good for another 24 years :) In that case, as I've started here, I may as well do this area I thought...

Out came the burner - reminds me, need more butane - and a scraper, and I set too deundersealing (Insert Expletives Here) God knows how people strip the whole of the bottom of a car, this is without doubt below working on transverse engined cars in my list of automotive ways to spend a day :| I only got the one chassis rail done from it's end to the back of the wheel arch.

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy26/wally111111/F69%20TLN/20140223%20-%20Rumbling/IMG_2710_zpsb7e7fc46.jpg (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/wally111111/media/F69%20TLN/20140223%20-%20Rumbling/IMG_2710_zpsb7e7fc46.jpg.html)

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy26/wally111111/F69%20TLN/20140223%20-%20Rumbling/IMG_2711_zps162a3e6e.jpg (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/wally111111/media/F69%20TLN/20140223%20-%20Rumbling/IMG_2711_zps162a3e6e.jpg.html)

I was going to do the floor between the sill and the rail too, but the carpets were getting warm, and I couldn't be bothered to take them out today, so that's a job for next time! Notice the disappearing light in the background :|

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy26/wally111111/F69%20TLN/20140223%20-%20Rumbling/IMG_2712_zps15fcaa0d.jpg (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/wally111111/media/F69%20TLN/20140223%20-%20Rumbling/IMG_2712_zps15fcaa0d.jpg.html)

Finally I decided to call it a day for today, so I painted over it all with a couple of coats of rede oxide and called it a day.

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy26/wally111111/F69%20TLN/20140223%20-%20Rumbling/IMG_2713_zpsb78e9de5.jpg (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/wally111111/media/F69%20TLN/20140223%20-%20Rumbling/IMG_2713_zpsb78e9de5.jpg.html)

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy26/wally111111/F69%20TLN/20140223%20-%20Rumbling/IMG_2715_zps6c1840fd.jpg (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/wally111111/media/F69%20TLN/20140223%20-%20Rumbling/IMG_2715_zps6c1840fd.jpg.html)

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy26/wally111111/F69%20TLN/20140223%20-%20Rumbling/IMG_2716_zpsb256490f.jpg (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/wally111111/media/F69%20TLN/20140223%20-%20Rumbling/IMG_2716_zpsb256490f.jpg.html)

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy26/wally111111/F69%20TLN/20140223%20-%20Rumbling/IMG_2720_zps35886806.jpg (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/wally111111/media/F69%20TLN/20140223%20-%20Rumbling/IMG_2720_zps35886806.jpg.html)

I will paint over it all with stone chip and chassis black and I'll be Waxoiling the chassis rails come summer when they dry out properly, but since I'm going to have to cut chunks out of the bottom of the car red oxide will suffice until the welding gets done.

So far the bits that need fixing are, this:

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy26/wally111111/F69%20TLN/20140223%20-%20Rumbling/IMG_2717_zps7e028e3b.jpg (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/wally111111/media/F69%20TLN/20140223%20-%20Rumbling/IMG_2717_zps7e028e3b.jpg.html)

And this:

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy26/wally111111/F69%20TLN/20140223%20-%20Rumbling/IMG_2718_zpsf2112f5a.jpg (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/wally111111/media/F69%20TLN/20140223%20-%20Rumbling/IMG_2718_zpsf2112f5a.jpg.html)

Ok, this time that's it for now. I'm hoping to do the welding at the car club at uni, and learn to do it myself. If anyone has any ideas on what the best way to do this would be then hints would certainly be appreciated :)

Richard

raw
02-23-2014, 02:19 PM
Oh, Forgot to mention one big thing!

Car is off the road for the moment! While the front end was in the air, I noticed that the N/S/F wheel bearing is knackered, really badly, and very noisy :P Hopefully this is the source of my rumble, as it's under warranty from GSF still! By the time I next come home - weeks away now - Hopefully I'll have a new one and will also have received a known good Glow Plug Relay to test if that explains my Glow Plug issues

Richard

doingitsideways
02-27-2014, 11:37 AM
Forgot the "From Steve" bit on here, Rich! ;)

Erm... Steve! :cool:

raw
03-19-2014, 02:10 AM
Hi all,

Still here! Been mega busy with uni stuff, coursework load is always at it’s heaviest at this point in the semester, but still going :) not the only thing I’ve been busy with, been playing with this in spare time too, as those who are friends with me on facebook may have seen.

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy26/wally111111/20140308%20-%20Tour%20of%20Epynt%202014/IMG_2749_zps574d2e58.jpg (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/wally111111/media/20140308%20-%20Tour%20of%20Epynt%202014/IMG_2749_zps574d2e58.jpg.html)

Our season opener at the Tour of Epynt 2014 didn’t go so well though with a retirement on the road section coming back to service after stage two. Suspected headgasket failure we think, but it remains to be seen how much further damage was done in the resulting overheat and whether this will effect the plans for the remainder of the season! Still, could have been worse!

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy26/wally111111/20140308%20-%20Tour%20of%20Epynt%202014/IMG_2761_zpsb50143c9.jpg (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/wally111111/media/20140308%20-%20Tour%20of%20Epynt%202014/IMG_2761_zpsb50143c9.jpg.html)

So, on to the subject of this thread! Car! In anticipation of plans that are afoot (i.e. stripping the underseal and repairing all rust, before re undersealing for the next 25 years), what is the best option for the underbody protection of the car following this?

At the moment I’m considering two options:

1) POR15, very well recommended, one treatment, VERY hard and very good at stopping rust. Not really designed for use under cars and arguably possibly too hard and prone to cracking? Nigh on impossible to overpaint due to hardness apparently, and likes to be applied ONLY to perfectly clean bare metal. Certainly the reputation is that this stuff is unbelievably good at protecting metal, but what if I ever needed to take it off!
2) 2) Epoxy based paint. (Like this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RUSTBUSTER-EPOXY-MASTIC-5m2-STARTER-PACK-/230512286193?pt=UK_Body_Shop_Supplies_Paint&clk_rvr_id=605018982039&hash=item35ab9a59f1&afsrc=1) Spray able from a normal spray gun, similar priced, and I believe what modern underseal is based on? Can be used in primer form and then overpainted with stone chip type paint and then chassis black, which I think would look more OEM, and also stand up to road use, stones etc better?

What are people’s opinions, and where should I obtain materials from?

Richard

745 TurboGreasel
03-19-2014, 01:24 PM
POR hates grease, but likes a lightly rusted surface as it can grip even more if that makes any sense.
there is an additive you can get to help paint stick over it, and I think another to help it not fade from UV.
I did the Chassis of my 68 Firebird about 15 years ago, and its still looking pretty good, can't say the same about the body parts I did with paint.
.
I'm not sure what kind of class those little cars are, but it looks like a load of fun.

raw
03-19-2014, 02:35 PM
Cheers for the reply, any info I can get on the different options is great as it's all going towards my final decision :)

As for the cars, well amusingly all the three I posted were Darrians which is impressive seeing as of 107 entrants at the tour of epynt (first round of the British Tarmac rally championship) only 7 were Darrians. The grey one that I was helping out with is team promotive's t9 V6 which runs in class b12 FYI (basically the big boys class, fighting it out with the WRC imprezzas and fords and the likes.

Rich

raw
03-26-2014, 02:08 PM
Nipped to the motor club this afternoon (meant to be doing a tip run for them, which we didn't leave for until after the tip closed - then hit every red light in loughborough, before releasing the tip was closed, and then hitting every red light on the way back too!).

did manage to set my injection pump timing correctly though, which it turns out I was right to think it was a little advanced. got the gauge on it and it was at 1.47mm (should be 0.95-1.05 ish I think). It's now set to 0.98 and what a difference! Soo much smoother and more refined without all that rattle all the time! Hopefully I'll see some improvement on the fuel economy too!

That's all for now folks.

Richard

raw
03-31-2014, 10:06 AM
Broke my radiator top pipe, new ones are apparently different to petrol cars? Best price so far that is definitely for the right car is £234 +P&P. Have found some cheaper options but not sure. Any ideas?

In other news, just ordered:

1ltr Panel Wipe
6ltr UPOL Gravitex Stone Chip
1 Shutz Gun
1kg Brushable Seam Sealer
2000mm x 500mm Sound Deadening Pad
2.5ltr Rustbuster 421 'Custom' Epoxy Primer (Grey)
1ltr FE-123 Rust Nutraliser
and a paint mixing cup :P

My bank account is now nearly £200 lighter :|

Richard