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woodenspoon
03-24-2013, 10:51 AM
I have a 1984 volvo 245 D24.
Well, replaced the fuel filter and now it wont start. Is there any thing that needs to be done besides just unscrewing the old filter and screwing the new one on? I tried cranking it a bunch, took the filter off to see if it was filling, but it doesnt seem to be. Do I need to bleed the filter? is there a walk though for this online somewhere?
Also, where can I get a service manual for this car?

Thanks in advance

woodenspoon
03-24-2013, 03:34 PM
Update:

I took the fuel filter off and filled it with diesel and put it back on. Cranked it for a long time while pumping the gas (diesel pedel). Eventually got it to sort of start. Sounds like its running on 3 or 4 cylinders and wont idle on its own. Any ideas? Do I need to prime the pump some how? Any insite would be great.

Thanks guys

v8volvo
03-24-2013, 04:55 PM
Filter should always be pre-filled with new, clean fuel (i.e. NOT what came out of your old filter) prior to installation. Installing it dry leads to the issue you described. Nope, no bleeding procedure necessary if you install it primed, the little bit of air you introduced will be bled out on its own soon as engine is started.

Also critical to check that the inner O-ring from the old filter comes off with it, and that the inner O-ring on the new filter is in its correct position. The o-rings like to stick on the threaded snout of the filter head when you take the old filter off and since it's down low on the motor in this application, you can't see it easily, have to check by feel with a (clean!!!!!!) finger. I have seen them where there will be a whole stack of O-rings stuck on there from old filters, eventually they will get in the way enough that the filter can't screw on all the way, causing the outer O-ring to not get a good seal and letting air get sucked in when engine is running, resulting in starting and driveability issues. Concurrently if the inner O-ring is forgotten during installation, or not positioned correctly, fuel is allowed to bypass the filter, which means rapid death to the injection pump. High quality filters for this application (e.g. Bosch, Meyle etc) have this O-ring retained in position by design to prevent screwups but if you are using a Napa, Fram, etc, it is an easy mistake to make. Make sure you're not making it!

Pumping the pedal will not achieve anything on a diesel, there's no accelerator pump, if you want to bleed fuel system quickly just hold the pedal to the floor. In your case sounds like you got a good slug of air into the fuel system that has not been completely purged. Assuming it now has an air-free fuel supply to the IP, running the engine should get the other cylinders to come back in short order. If that doesn't do it, watch the transparent fuel line between the filter head and the IP inlet with the engine running -- sometimes a flashlight helps. If you see air bubbles traveling in the fuel you have an air ingress issue continuing to cause a problem. Check that the filter is tight, check that that inner O-ring came off with your old filter, if you don't have it, then take filter off again and make sure that the new inner O-ring on your new filter is the only one you are putting on there.

Did you replace the filter initially just as preventive maintenance or to address some kind of running symptom?

What's your location? Welcome to the forum! :)

woodenspoon
03-24-2013, 05:31 PM
Thanks for the response. Ill go out and give it another try in the morning.

Supose now is as good a time as any for an introduction. My name is James and I live in Savannah GA. Ive worked a wide range of cars, but this is my first diesel. This is also my first swedish car. Although the constriction of it reminds me of 80s porsches. Makes sense considering the heavy VW influence.

Any how. Im sure Ill have plenty of questions in the future. Any recomendations on shops in GA or on where I could potentially get a shop manual?

Thanks again for the info.

woodenspoon
03-25-2013, 08:50 AM
yup, there was an extra o ring stuck up there. Took it out, put the filter back on and she fired right up.

Thanks again

morgan1227
08-15-2013, 04:23 PM
I'm having a similar problem. Starts ok for 2-3 times, then won't start. I can get it to start by pulling the bleed screw off the fuel filter and filling it manually (I can put it several ounces, is that normal?). I have an additional issue in that my battery (< 6 months old) reads 10.5 - 10.75 V at rest, and even when I put it on charger (on now), I only get up to a little over 11 V. Shouldn't it be more than that? Seems like it doesn't turn the motor over fast enough to fire, unless I am on a jump from a healthy battery. When it cools down, I will check filter for old o-rings, but do I have two problems here? Getting weary of my daughter getting stuck out in the heat (110).

745 TurboGreasel
08-15-2013, 06:12 PM
battery probably has 1 dead cell.

It sounds like you have air entering the system. verify every hose clamp is tight. if that doesn't get it, I find the easiest way to spot small leaks is to presureise the system with a small pump (5-10 PSI) spliced into between the frame and the fuel filter. the lip seal on the injection pump input shaft is a common culprit for air in while not leaking fuel out.